WENDING a way down dark country lanes on a cold, wet night with nary a visible signpost isn’t at the top of my agenda as the perfect way to begin a fun evening, especially after a perishing cold day waiting for a heating engineer to fix a temperamental boiler.

However, as we entered our destination of the Stanwick Inn (formerly Arms) at Aldbrough St John the warmth of the welcome set the tone for the evening.

As soon as we stepped into the bar our presence was immediately acknowledged with a beaming smile and hello from landlady Helen Maddison-Potts, even though she was busy serving others.

Helen and husband Neil, who is head chef, have been at the Stanwick for just two years. Following 20 successful years at the Shoulder of Mutton in Middleton Tyas, they decided it was time to have a place of their own.

Such was their reputation that many of their clientele followed them the short distance along the A66 and have remained loyal.

The inn is an amazing warren of rooms large and small including cosy bars, which easily merge and flow into one another. Toasting ourselves by the fire to study the menu, Peter nursed an excellent pint of Daleside ale and me a glass of white wine, unsurprised to learn that Neil has CAMRA awards to his name, along with the Cask Marque showing that he serves quality, well kept beer, mainly from microbreweries.

There’s room for 80-90 diners, and on the night we were there trade was bustling. Helen later told us that Sunday lunchtimes are so busy they’re turning people away, so they’re looking at offering two sittings.

The menu offers up old favourites from their former venue as well as new dishes, with produce sourced locally where possible.

Reluctant to stir from the fire, we followed Neil’s mum Kath Potts to our table, tastefully covered with a snow white cloth, black and gold runner and matching napkins. Kath is responsible for staff training and her standards have certainly rubbed off on the friendly and attentive waitresses.

From a choice of half a dozen starters Peter picked a portion of potted mushrooms and crispy bacon in a cream sauce, topped with grilled cheddar, while I went for braised lamb’s kidneys and mushrooms in sweet sherry with glazed Stilton gravy, both at £4.95. They were accompanied with a soft roll, perfect for mopping up those juices, and butter a tad on the firm side for spreading.

The kidneys were memorable; with every trace of core removed they were tenderness itself. Peter’s starter was similarly well received.

With a dozen a la carte dishes, a specials board, plus a grill menu and a vegetarian menu, the mains took some time to ponder.

Peter eventually settled on braised chunks of beef in Daleside bitter, mushrooms and onions, with a homemade leek and horseradish dumpling, a worthy portion at £10.95.

He referred to it as a ‘man’s meal which needed a real pint with it’, and was in seventh heaven. In the interests of quality control I pinched a bit of his dumpling – a light-as-air affair with a crisp crust. Bliss.

My poached fillet of Scottish salmon with prawns in lime and vermouth sauce was equally worthy, the salmon discernibly flavoursome over the piquant sauce.

With its £13.95 price tag I was sure it couldn’t be wild, yet its flavour and texture suggested it wasn’t farmed.

Helen later explained that it was produced as part of Freedom Foods, a farm assurance and food labeling scheme set up by the RSPCA. Whatever it was, it left me wanting more. Both dishes came with a good selection of vegetables, including baby potatoes, carrots, red and green cabbage, and broccoli.

Service was attentive, with a waitress at our elbow to bring a peppermill, a glass of tap water, another glass of wine etc when requested.

Nothing was too much trouble – a tribute to Kath’s training no doubt.

Deciding we had room for pudding, Peter went for dark chocolate truffle torte with cream and a dash of dark rum. The torte was declared scrummy, but with the rum having dashed in and dashed out again he readily purloined my scoop of rum and raisin ice cream, which I’d foolishly declared superfluous to my chewy meringue with cherries and whipped cream.

Relaxing with a second glass of wine, cup of coffee and the offer of refills, we were pleasantly surprised by the £58.70 bill. Forsaking the country lanes, we headed home via the speedier A66, feeling cool to be in with the inn crowd.