Nowt fancy, just honest good fare.

AFTER a lengthy run of sampling meals exclusively in pub dining rooms for this column, there was a little irony that The Snug in which we found ourselves was, in fact, a restaurant.

I’m a big fan of snugs – cosy little rooms tucked away in open fire-warmed pubs. But this Easingwold eatery is a world away from bar fug and flagstone floors.

Converted two years ago from empty premises formerly occupied by a record shop and a home in this gem of a little town’s Market Place, it was then extended earlier this year to take in what was a small clothing store.

So now it sits, well, snugly, on a corner close to the Butter Cross (which some folk mistake for a bandstand, apparently).

Owner Anne-Marie Sargent came from running the kitchen at the popular Corner Cupboard, up the A19 towards Thirsk. Life-long baker and confectioner husband Jason joined her later to run front-of-house.

It’s neat, cleanly furnished, and clearly a busy hub of a restaurant where lively trade creates a gentle buzz, even on a Thursday evening.

It was quieter on our arrival though (a large party was due in soon after us) and we were warmly welcomed before being shown to a quiet little table at the rear but then – a nice touch this – asked if we’d prefer an alternative location.

We opted for a table out front, by one of those windows.

A short while later, with drinks in hand, we picked over chalked-up specials and substantially-bound menus.

Now it could be my love of words, or more particularly the way well-chosen words on a menu can make an empty stomach rumble, but the Snug described its food in rather a sparse, ordinary way.

Calling a spade a spade, I suppose, without flowery flannel. But I admit that I like to be teased and tantalised by a menu – plenty of promise, with now and then a hint of something surprising.

On the other hand, diners can be left word-weary by lengthy menus jam-packed with adjectives, only to be disappointed by what ends up arriving on the waiter’s arm.

No such problem here though.

Pan-fried queen scallops in garlic butter with a gruyere and breadcrumb topping (£7.50) were generous (huge, in fact) with a tasty cheesy crust. Good bread was on hand to soak up that delicious butter too.

A bread and butter pudding made a nice change for a starter (£6.50). Effectively a soufflé, it was light and perfectly cooked. I’m not cursed (blessed?) with a sweet tooth, so I must admit that the combination of a generous amount of red onion marmalade in the mix, plus a tasty but very sweet tomato sauce, made for a partnership that was a little too sugary for me. Perhaps a spicy sauce would have balanced it better?

Extremely satisfied with her scallops, Anna moved on to a goat’s cheese salad (£9.95).

Grilling (or baking) the large cylinder of cheese before slicing had given it a gratifying texture, with gooey centre contrasting nicely with firmer edges. Leaves and dressing all passed muster.

My lamb shank (£14.95) was perfect. Extremely tender, its accompanying redcurrant and mint sauce was delicious to the very last drop. Accompanying vegetables were also spot on.

All of the dishes were attractively presented.

Other menu options ranged across pub and café classics, including Yorkshire pudding with onion gravy (£3.95), deep-fried brie with dressed leaves and apple chutney (£6.50) and garlic Wensleydale mushrooms (£5.95); or for mains, garlic cheese chicken (£11.50), oven-baked salmon (£10.95) or a 10oz sirloin steak with choice of peppercorn or stilton sauce (£17.95). Gammon and egg, scampi, battered haddock a house burger and lasagne are all trusted – if unadventurous – English menu staples.

For dessert, the Snug Mess (£4.95) was a variation on the Eton variety, using bananas instead of out-of-season strawberries and employing a toffee sauce to excellent effect.

I chose a beautifully cooked cherry Bakewell tart (£4.95), which came with good quality ice cream.

Two drinks and a bottle of Argentinean Malbec (£17.50) brought the bill to £69.85. Not a cheap dinner, and more stylish ones in fancier surroundings can certainly be had for the same price hereabouts, but this was a wellcooked, no-nonsense meal served with attentive good manners in a pleasant atmosphere.

It’s also a great little food lovers’ town: check it out during shop opening hours.