Castle is gone, church remains

Only 2½ miles from Thirsk, it is a short distance outside the boundary of the national park and enjoys a setting in beautiful countryside.

That setting is blessed with superb views across the Vale of Mowbray towards the Yorkshire Dales and Pennines.

Lunch in the recently-refurbished Carpenters’ Arms provided the first puzzle because almost opposite the inn there is a mound of earth which has the appearance of being man-made. And so it is.

This is a motte which, in times past, would have borne a wooden castle surrounded by another defensive earthwork known as a bailey, hence the term motte and bailey castle. Sometimes, the bailey provided scope to include extra defences in the form of a moat, while the wooden castle was further protected by a tall and very strong wooden stockade.

Because these were defensive earthworks, they varied in size and design, but were the work of the Norman invaders whose skills at building castles were later to produce some large and very strong ones built from stone. Some of those stone castles occupied earlier mottes, a fine example being Clifford’s Tower in York. It is a 13th century tower upon an 11th century motte. The precise number of motte and bailey castles in this country is unknown, but apparently there were lots of them.

In several of my fairly old reference books – albeit with one being reprinted as recently as 1920 – Felixkirk is known as Feliskirk and it is not easy to determine when the change of name occurred.

However, it has had other names too.

In 1086, it was called Fridebi and by 1210 was known as Ecclesia S Felicis (the church of Saint Felicis), Felicekyrke, Fillyxchurche, Feliskirk and Felixkirk. The name Felice is the Italian version of Felix and there was an Italian, St Felice, who was martyred in Milan in AD303. The snag is that there are almost 70 saints called Felix in the Roman Martyrology, most of whom are very obscure.

One with links to England was St Felix of Dunwich, who was born in Burgundy, but died in England in 648. Felixstowe is named in his honour and he is probably the patron saint of Felixkirk church.

The church is very beautiful both inside and out, and although it was largely rebuilt in 1860 to the design of an architect called William Hey Dykes, some evidence of its ancient Catholic origins remain.

It dates from Norman times, although the apse has been rebuilt, while some Norman remains can be seen.

The tower was not part of the original church and probably dates from the 16th century.

There is some interesting stained glass within the church and the organ is perhaps unique because when it was installed, it was operated by hydraulic action.

It is known that, prior to the Reformation, Byland Abbey owned property in Felixkirk, but at the time of the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the parish church belonged to the Knights Hospitallers at their preceptory of Mount St John just outside Felixkirk.

Founded at Jerusalem in 1048, their original task was to provide hospitium (board, lodgings and entertainment) to pilgrims, later becoming an order caring for the sick and poor. Although for a time it became an almost military organisation, it reverted to its earlier role in the 18th century, tending the sick and poor, and established its headquarters in Rome in 1834.

At times, this may be confused with the Order of the Poor Knights of the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem, later becoming known as the Knights Templar, who also founded hospitals in the Middle East for pilgrims travelling from Europe. The Templars had preceptories in North Yorkshire, but none at Felixkirk.

Although a notice in Felixkirk church dismisses the destruction wrought during the Reformation in a mere three words, referring to it as Henry VIII’s reforms, Felixkirk was seriously affected during that religious turmoil. I am not sure what happened to the delightful church at that time except that it was in a pitiful state before its restoration began in 1860.

Prior to the Reformation, the preceptory of the Knights Hospitallers was on its reputed site at Mount St John above the village, but was dissolved by Henry’s commissioners.

There are no remains.

There is no doubt its loss seriously affected the local community, because it would have provided both work and a welfare role. A large private house was built on the site in 1720.

At the Dissolution, the preceptory was valued at £102 13s 9d. (£102.69), but in a return made to the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, there was a deduction of £48 1s 2d for “Responsio annuatim soluta religioni pro defensione fidei”, but for some unknown reason, this phrase was struck from the records. Sadly, I could not find an accurate translation for this.

One interesting point is that, from the 12th century until the Dissolution, the Knights Hospitallers of St John of Jerusalem were patrons of Felixkirk church and appointed its priests.

On the day of our visit, Felixkirk church was open to celebrate the 150th anniversary of its restoration by Dykes. With splendid floral decorations accompanied by music from its famous organ, this lovely little church looked at its best. I am sure it could tell a lot more stories if only its stones could speak.

Seascapes

I HAVE been sent a fascinating book by the Whitby-born author Peter Frank. It is entitled Sea Painter. The Life and work of J R Bagshaw 1870- 1909, Marine Artist, and is published by Phillimore at £16.99.

Joseph Bagshaw was born at Hampstead on the outskirts of London and his father was a judge. A highly-intelligent youngster, Joseph could have succeeded in almost any profession, but was determined to become a professional artist.

Every year, the Bagshaw family took their holidays in Whitby and it was here that the young Bagshaw fell in love with the Yorkshire coast, and Staithes and Whitby in particular. He loved the fishing fleets, the stormy seas, the fisherfolk busy with their tough work and the small boats that they used.

Not surprisingly, Bagshaw became a member of the famous Staithes Art Club, more widely known as the Staithes Group of Artists.

He met his future wife during one of those family visits to Whitby – she was Mildred Turnbull, daughter of the shipbuilder of that name.

It seems that Joseph was highly successful with a broad range of styles and subjects and he was perhaps the only maritime artist able to correctly depict the classic lines of a Whitby coble, the small fishing boat that was used off that coast.

Seventeen of his works were exhibited at the Royal Academy and 43 were accepted by the Royal Society of British Artists. Some of his watercolours were also used on the fashionable new product – the postcard – and he could even turn to writing and journalism when necessary.

Sadly, he died at the early age of 39, leaving a wife and young family, but his work lives on.

Peter Frank’s book, with its remarkably detailed history, its atmospheric photographs and reproductions of Bagshaw’s paintings, provides a vivid account of the tough lives of the north-east Yorkshire fishing community. It is also a fitting tribute to a very special artist.

Cave-man’s day

TODAY is the feast day of St Robert of Knaresborough, a 12th century cave-dweller and former monk of Fountains Abbey.

His hermitage, complete with altar and piscina, became known as St Robert’s Chapel and can still be seen in the cliffs above the River Nidd in Knaresborough.