Back to form for village favourite.

THE last time we called at the Shoulder of Mutton in Middleton Tyas, it was altogether pretty depressing.

On a Saturday lunchtime, the place was almost empty and what was once a much-loved village pub seemed to have taken on the ambience of a funeral parlour, and a not very clean one at that.

The landlady seemed at the end of her tether and although the food was just about passable, the overall experience was far from conducive to a return visit. It was no surprise to learn shortly afterwards that the pub lease was up for sale. The landlady’s previous experience was in the Orange call centre in Darlington. Running a pub had proved a rather different matter.

The lease did eventually change hands and word has spread that the new people know what they are doing.

Villagers are saying they’ve got their old pub back and enthusiastic reports reached our offices.

As soon as we walked through the door on a recent Friday evening, the change in atmosphere was remarkable.

It’s nothing to do with a wholesale refurbishment because little has appeared to have changed internally. The outside has had a coat of paint and a “re-branding”, but because the kitchen required gutting, the new tenants have not, so far, had the cash to splash out on the bar and eating areas.

No matter, because this is what the Shoulder of Mutton used to be – the perfect blend of the pub that still welcomes the locals for a pint or two while also accommodating those from further afield seeking more than liquid sustenance.

Despite the numbers of people in, we were immediately spotted by the bar staff, welcomed and offered a drink and menus. Sometimes you get the first impression that a place knows what it is doing and this was one of those.

Our “cover” was almost blown by a certain local who having spotted us at the bar came over, bought us a drink and suggested rather loudly that we “give the place a bloody good write-up”. Amid much raised eyebrows and out-of-the-side-of mouth mutterings about endeavouring to be incognito while being very grateful for the kind offer, we were shown to our table by manager Kevin Hacking, who proved to be particularly attentive all evening. We discovered later he had not cottoned on to our identities so the attention was genuine, and the evident professionalism was grounded in extensive experience.

Mr Hacking is a trained chef and both he and his wife, Fran, have long worked in the hospitality business. Head chef Simon Edwards comes from the Black Bull at Moulton.

They clearly make a good team.

Sylvia had decided to skip a starter with the declared intention of pinching a few of my mussels (£7), which were classically steamed with shallots, white wine, cream and parsley and served with crusty bread.

That I felt no ill-will towards her larcenous intent was principally owing to the number and size of the plateful put before us. It was easily enough for two. These mussels had muscles. Plump, fat even, they reminded me of the biceps of a cartoon Popeye.

They were also juicy and bathed in a perfect sauce. Inevitably a messy dish, a finger bowl was provided for cleaning up afterwards.

Main courses were excellent too. Sylvia couldn’t recall the last time she had tasted such tender lamb. Her grilled piece of rump came with wilted greens, a lovely little shepherd’s pie and a red wine gravy (£13). Further investigations about the revered rump revealed excellent upbringing, via Cockburn’s butchers in Bedale and a lemon juice marinade.

I had my doubts the cod loin would stand up to the wave of flavour represented by the accompanying curried prawn risotto, mini bhaji, curry oil and Greek yoghurt (£14). But it was a handsome, chunky, firm-fleshed piece of fish, roasted just right.

The dish of mixed vegetables was well prepared and presented too, with the exception of the new potatoes which were just a little on the firm side for our taste.

I finished with a seriously smooth white chocolate and cardamom pannacotta with blackberries (£5) and was pleased to note the absence of sticky toffee pudding from the dessert menu. The high tide of STP may be turning.

With our drinks kindly purchased by the friendly local (the D&S accounts department says thanks, too) our bill was just £39.

In these difficult times for rural pubs, it is satisfying to record the return to form of one of the area’s long-time favourites. The Shoulder of Mutton shows that the right people can make country inns work.