THERE’S not much that Chris Blom doesn’t know about bulbs. As a director of Bloms Bulbs, the award-winning family-run firm which this year celebrates its 150th anniversary and its 60th gold medal at Chelsea, he has spent much of his life growing, developing and nurturing bulbs.

You might think that after more than a century of development it would be easier to grow bulbs now than it was when the company first started, but that is not so, he said.

“I don’t think it’s easier, but the varieties you have now are stronger and the breeding’s better so you get better displays. But the fundamentals of gardening remain the same today.

“If you look at something like tulips, Alba Regalis, a lilyflowered tulip, used to be very weak, thin-stemmed and small-flowered.

Now you have White Triumphator, which is immensely strong and bigflowered.

The development of it came about before the Second World War, when they discovered the viruses in tulips and they bred that out of them to get stronger plants.”

Many people make the mistake of not sufficiently watering their bulbs in pots in spring, when the flowers are forming.

Mr Blom said: “One of the biggest changes we’ve seen over the years is the increase in patio gardening. But if you are growing bulbs in containers, what people forget, especially around March when you can get some very dry weather, is that they do need watering.”

While beds and borders dry from the top downwards, patio tubs dry from the sides inwards and top and bottom.

“March is the time to water because that’s when the flower bud starts developing.

Without enough moisture in the tubs, you won’t get a properly developed flower.”

Another problem can occur when tubs freeze in winter, he said.

“People have problems with hyacinths in tubs because they get frozen. It’s not the freezing of the tub that does any harm, it’s when the bulb is defrosting, the little cells burst and you get a mushy mess. If you are going to have freezing, windy weather, put a dustbin liner over the container which will break the wind.”

“People should also remember that when it’s frosty, it tends to dry the ground out a lot. When growing daffodils, especially in the garden, people need to plant them deep because they need moisture in the spring and in the garden the surface soil can dry out quite a lot.”

“Daffodils should always be seen as an investment. If you plant ten daffodils, the first year you’ll get 15 or 20 flowers.

In the next year you’ll get 50 and above. The same goes for lilies.”

The secret of a good display is to concentrate on five or six different types of bulbs, making sure you plant enough of each type to make a show.

Dwarf bulbs should be planted in groups of ten, larger bulbs such as crown imperials and alliums in groups of three. Crown imperials should be planted at a 45 degree angle to stop water settling in the bulb.

Unlike many designers, Mr Blom doesn’t necessarily agree with the idea of repeat planting the same bulb throughout a border.

“I personally think the beauty of a spring-flowering bulb is to bring the eye to a part of the garden which would otherwise be quite dull. It just lifts the whole garden. I prefer different types rather than the same all the way along.

It’s more interesting to the eye and keeps the interest going as the seasons continue, from the winter-flowering crocus, to daffodils, tulips and then alliums.”

His top five bulbs to plant in the autumn are:

● Tulipa Sky High Scarlet: These showy single late tulips, which flower in May, produce large elongated heads of brilliant scarlet red with a slightly darker bloom rising from the yellow base.

● Allium Pink Jewel: Lovely allium, which grows to 75cm (30in) in height, producing large attractive heads packed with delightful lilac rose florets.

Flowers in June. Plant in sun in the border and feed them with potash to encourage flowering in subsequent years.

● Narcissus Tete a Tete: Delightful clusters of miniature trumpet daffodils daintily poised on each strong stem appear in March. Neat buttercup gold trumpets, clear yellow slender petals. Excellent for pot culture, superb naturaliser.

Plant with the multiflowered species tulip T praestans Fusilier for a stunning display.

● Hyacinth Blue Jacket: Produces a solid spike of large bluebell flowers silvering slightly towards the edges of the long petals. It stands straight and doesn’t tend to fall over. The best way to stake a hyacinth is to push a thin wire stake down the stem and through the bulb when it’s in flower, said Mr Blom.

● Anemone Blue Mist: Pretty flowers in slightly varying shades of blue, very effective on the rockery or used as an undergrowth. Produces a carpet of blossom and naturalises rapidly. Soak the bulbs for 24 hours before planting, to plump up the bulb, and site anemones somewhere damp.

● For more information, go to blomsbulbs.com or call 01234-709099