Fine dining in wooded Wensleydale.

IT has to be a brave move.

At a time when, so we are told, 40 pubs are closing each month across the UK and those that are left are reinventing themselves as eateries chasing an ever-diminishing number of customers, opening a new restaurant must rank as a real leap of faith.

And, if that restaurant is in the upper reaches of Wensleydale, easily accessible admittedly, but hardly overwhelmed with passing trade out of the tourist season, then you begin to wonder if the people behind Henderson’s Bistro have seen greener shoots of economic recovery than the rest of us.

One major factor in its favour is its location on the very upmarket Westholme Estate “leisure resort” – a £10m redevelopment of a former caravan and camping site, with rather swish holiday lodges set in the beautiful wooded valley of Bishopdale Beck.

No log cabins these. The “eco lodges”, the glossy brochure informs us, are constructed from timber from sustainable forests and, if you’re very green, you can even have one with a sedum roof. They certainly don’t look cheap, although it was impossible to find out just how much they cost, either from the sales office or the internet.

And if they’re aimed at a wellheeled clientele, so, too, in its presentation is the bistro.

This stylish conversion of the former clubhouse – not, as some sources had alleged, a cowshed – features much use of honey-coloured wood, neutral-toned carpets and rugs and, in the bar area, low tables and comfy chairs arranged around a pristineclean wood-burning stove, where even the logs are stacked neatly.

As the place opened only last month, you could expect it to be bright and shiny clean, but this style of Scandinavian simplicity will probably keep its good looks for a long time.

The dining room is again decorated in neutral tones, with nice solid cutlery, linen napkins, good glassware and plain white china adding to the uncluttered feel.

Henderson’s is run by joint managers Rebecca Markham and Simon Copley, who says most of their produce is locally sourced – the meat from the Yorkshire Dales Meat at Patrick Brompton – and the chef certainly is. He’s Gavin Swift, who comes with a fine reputation from the Wyvill Arms, just down the dale at Constable Burton.

Ladies who like to lunch, I took my mother to sample Henderson’s. Restaurateurs take note: this could be your sternest critic. After all, at that age, you know good food when you see it and you’re not prepared to suffer fools gladly.

First of all, full marks for the service – although on a Tuesday they weren’t exactly overstretched – which was attentive without being overpowering.

From the lunchtime menu – two course for £12, three for £14 – we chose a roasted cherry tomato and basil soup, which was declared beautiful, and, for me, a generous serving of Serrano ham and melon. There was plenty of good bread and a nice pot of butter. More good marks from mother.

Other starters were asparagus, poached egg with Hollandaise sauce; and tempura battered prawns with a sweet chilli dip.

The Serrano ham was my mother’s rather adventurous main course choice – this time served with goats’ cheese and rocket salad, with a honey and balsamic vinegar dressing and presented with a whole pear (“a bit hard, but very pretty”), which was greatly enjoyed.

My choice, wild mushroom risotto, was wonderfully creamy, but with a good, sharp tang, and came with a clever Parmesan crisp – rather like a lattice poppadom.

Other mains were chicken, leek and ham pie; fish and chips with mushy peas; and salmon fishcakes with chive beurre blanc.

Our puddings, which were served in very elegant Martini- style glasses, were some very acceptable vanilla ice cream, which mother said rounded her meal of very nicely, and, for me, an indulgent English strawberry trifle.

There is also a sandwich menu and an interesting cheese menu, featuring selections from Ireland, France, Italy and Britain – including, obviously, Wensleydale from Hawes and some intriguing varieties, such as Hereford Hop and Kidderton Ash.

Set dinner is £15 for two courses, £19 for three and, if you’re wanting more choice, there is a carte with starters around £6, mains, including Yorkshire Dales sirloin steak and free-range chicken, around the £15 mark, with puddings £6.

This is quality food, served to top restaurant standards.

Henderson’s deserves to succeed – let’s hope the economic crunch doesn’t nip it in the bud.