This is a long walk in remote Dales countryside. However, it is full of interest, starts and finishes in the most attractive section of Wharfedale and (arguably) visits the remote spot in England.
The bulk of the walk is on fast tracks through the moors but after Mossdale follows a more intermittent path.
I parked next to the bridge over the River Wharfe at Conistone, a lovely hamlet. Start by taking a walk up the Conistone Dib, found by walking through a small, attractive green east of the stables. The dib is a fine example of a dry limestone valley. Starting off through some awkward rocky steps the dib opens up at Gurling Trough in to easy walking on a grassy path before a steep scramble on an eroded path completes the valley. The dib is an atmospheric place.
On emerging from the dib join the Dalesway, walk for a few metres to your left through two gates to a crossroads of paths. Turn right and head east on a major track. Almost immediately on your left is one of the finest examples of limestone pavements in the Dales. Do not be distracted for long because this is where the distance walking start.
For the next two and a half miles follow "Bycliffe Road" (a bridlepath) initially uphill and east but then entering the vast wetland basin of Bycliffe. The track heads north east past the caves of Mossdale Scar. Mossdale Caves was the scene of a tragedy in 1967 when six cavers became trapped and died. The track runs on to the shooting house at Mossdale. It’s a wonderful place for a picnic.
The easy walking so far is now replaced by rougher and largely trackless ground. I varied this part of the walk by heading south east uphill past some shooting butts to a fence on the ridge top, half a mile distant. Due to the existence of the butts there is a rough path leading up which helps!
Do not be fooled in to thinking that there is a tarn here (the O/S map shows a large tarn, Priests) but this barely exists even after rain. It can only be a consequence of some of the local land management practices. On meeting the fence turn left and climb for half a mile to a fence junction, turn left again towards the bulk of Great Whernside, and continue along wild moorland for a further three quarters of a mile along the fence to a boggy area where the direct bridlepath (your return route) meets Sandy Gate (a stile!).
Do not cross the stile (which heads towards Upper Nidderdale) but continue north alongside the fence (on your right), climbing slightly. After 150m a boundary stone appears on the east (other) side of the fence and another 150m a small pile of stones appears, set proudly on a peat hag. Surely this is it! Looking at the distance to the nearest point of access it may be a few metres north and east of here but it was good enough for me; the remotest spot in England. It is right on the border of the Yorkshire Dales National Park and Nidderdale.
From here return to Sandy Gate and join the bridleway heading back to the shooting house. The path is difficult to follow in places but helped by a few blue painted poles. Losing the path is not a disaster though, just drop down to the river bank and turn left.
The return from here is via the same two and a half mile track before arriving at the Dalesway. Enjoy the birds on the wetlands including the bark of curlews, very satisfying. Rather than head down the rocky dib to Conistone stick to the main track to the north, it’s easier after such a long walk.
Walk facts
Distance: Roughly 11.5 miles.
Height to climb: 480m (1,580 feet).
Start: SD 978675. There is parking on the bridge leading to Conistone.
Difficulty: Hard and long. The walk to Mossdale is on a good track but the moorland above is remote and awkward.
Refreshments: Either the Kilnsey Trout Farm café or the Tenants Arms hotel.
Be prepared: The route description and sketch map only provide a guide to the walk. You must take out and be able to read a map (OL2) and in cloudy/misty conditions a compass. You must also wear the correct clothing and footwear for the outdoors. Whilst every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers head out at their own risk.
Please observe the Countryside Code and park sensibly.
- Jonathan Smith runs Where2walk, a walking company based in the Yorkshire Dales. He has published three books on walking in the Dales, The Yorkshire 3 Peaks, The Dales 30 mountains and Walks without Stiles. All these books (and more) are available direct from the Where2walk website. Climb the Three Peaks in three days (Yorkshire version), on September 6, 7 and 8. Book a navigation (map and compass skills) training day near Settle (next date September 2). All dates and details are on where2walk.co.uk, which also features hundreds of walks across Yorkshire and beyond, from easy strolls to harder climbs.
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