A VISIT to Thirsk when the town's yarnbombers have been in action is a real treat, and so it was that, a bit early for lunch with a friend, I went for a full tour of the Market Place.

From jolly Santas, to festive penguins, to a full Nativity scene, the knitted displays are an absolute joy. As someone whose crafting abilities are limited by deficits in both creativity and dexterity – thanks to several nasty altercations with hockey sticks over the years resulting in broken digits – I can only wonder at the sheer attention to detail and dedication that produces this work. If you can get along to see the knitting, it will be up until January 8, and is raising money for mental health charity the Charlie Dallas Lancaster Foundation.

Tourist trip done, it was onto lunch at The Pantry on Millgate, a tearoom just off the Market Place, where my friend Emma and I were greeted warmly and offered a choice of tables. We decided to sit in the window where we could watch the world go by – and discuss our Christmas shopping progress (me: none, Emma: slightly more than none).

 

The Pantry on Millgate, Thirsk

The Pantry on Millgate, Thirsk

 

The tearoom has a lovely, cosy feel but is far from cramped, and also doubles as a shop selling local produce as well as homeware and gifts. These were artistically displayed in the main seating area and appeared more as furnishings than items for sale, but pretty as they were, they did not induce me to start my Christmas shopping. Food was the priority.

The lunch menu offers a selection of hot and cold sandwiches, paninis, salads and jacket potatoes, with specials on the day of our visit of roast cream of tomato soup, moussaka with hummus and flatbread, Whitby scampi, and a baguette melt of bacon, onion chutney and blue cheese.

I chose the posh fish finger sandwich which came in a ciabatta with skinny fries and salad (£11.95), while Emma went for a bacon and brie panini (£8.95).

 

The posh fish finger sandwich at The Pantry on Millgate, Thirsk

The posh fish finger sandwich at The Pantry on Millgate, Thirsk

 

Well, what a vast plate of food mine was – three enormous, chunky fish fingers, light batter, a heap of light but tasty fries and a mini-colander of salad that had hidden depths. It was all beautifully presented, piping hot and entirely delicious. Eating a sandwich of this magnitude politely is challenging, so I tried to do the ladylike thing and cut it into pieces first. But, as I have found on many occasions in life, dignity can be an obstacle to good fun, so I changed tactic and simply got stuck in. A good decision.

Emma's panini was of similar proportions and equally easy on the eye. As fare for a hungry healthcare worker coming off a nightshift, it was perfect, and packed with quality bacon and melty brie.

 

The bacon and brie panini at The Pantry on Millgate, Thirsk

The bacon and brie panini at The Pantry on Millgate, Thirsk

 

We were far too full for cake, but the mouthwatering display by the till made it impossible to leave without buying one. On the recommendation of a fellow customer, I chose the carrot cake, while Emma went for lemon drizzle, both giant slabs boxed up for us to take away. Mine was everything a carrot cake should be (in my humble opinion) when I got to it several hours later – moist without being too heavy, with nicely sweet icing. I messaged Emma later for a review of hers and she replied "it didn't make it home," which I think says it all. Top marks all round.

The bill, which included a pot of tea and an Americano, came to £31.30, which felt like great value for the quality, and quantity of food.

Service throughout was prompt, friendly and knowledgeable. The whole venue has a relaxed, homely feeling that comes from confidence in providing good food, served well. It's a great spot to catch up for a good yarn, and it was clear from the steady stream of satisfied customers coming and going throughout the hour we spent there, that many others agree.

The Pantry,

17-19 Millgate, Thirsk, YO71AA.

01845 522423

facebook.com/thepantrythirsk

Open 9am to 4pm Monday to Saturday, closed Sundays

Ratings (out of 10): Food quality 9 Service 9 Surroundings 9 Value 9