THERE have many occasions down the years – both at work, and at play – when I have metaphorically bitten off more than I can chew. At the weekend I experienced the more literal sense of the phrase.

Encouraged by good vibes from a work colleague, my sister and I booked into Marshall's on Yarm High Street after being further enticed by the invitation on its website to "come on an adventure to somewhere with a pinch of intrigue".

We were a little late for our 6.30pm reservation, but were greeted warmly on arrival and shown to our table, a bit close to the door but a very good spot for people-watching through the front window. It was just as well we had booked as the only seating available for walk-ins was outdoors.

Marshalls on Yarm High Street with its distinctive blue woodwork

Marshall's on Yarm High Street with its distinctive blue woodwork

Marshall's has two menus – a regular one with "starters and curiosities", platters, burgers and mains, and a second, special parmo menu that quite frankly, was a marketing triumph.

Despite living within parmo-range of Teesside for my entire life (aside from a brief interlude in the wilds of the east Yorkshire coast), my only previous, personal experience of the dish was a snippet of a friend's post-night out takeaway in a car park in Stokesley many, many years ago. As far as I can remember it was okay, but it obviously didn't tempt me into trying another parmo.

Presented with such creative options on the map-style menu as El Chapo ("a taste of Mexico, with nachos, salsa, hot sliced jalapenos and guacamole"), Pommie ("brought to Oz by our bridge building ancestors, a parmo topped with bacon and BBQ sauce") and Spanish Armada ("taking over Teesside with this spicy chorizo-topped parmo – King Phillip II-style"), I briefly lost my mind and ended up ordering not one, but five different parmos.

In my defence, they were mini-versions (relatively), and I did try to bargain the platter down from five to three, but that wasn't an option.

If that wasn't enough of an error of judgement for a first-time parmo-ist, we ordered nachos to share as a starter, and they came coated in a portion of cheese that could probably have sunk a few of King Phil's fleet back in 1588 if rolled into cannon ball-form. But they were absolutely spot on – piping hot, with salsa that had exactly the right amount of spicy kick, and fresh guacamole.

Nachos to start with salsa that made our eyes water (in a good way), and guacamole

Nachos to start with salsa that made our eyes water (in a good way), and guacamole

It was quite a hefty measure though, and my appetite was already seriously struggling by the time our mains arrived.

The mini-parmo platters – which come in a couple of combinations, or a "pick 'n' mix" option – are simply vast. Stronger stomachs than mine might be able to manage it as a solo meal, but I'd say it's probably more of a sharer.

I chose the classic platter, which meant a traditional Teesside parmo, plus a hot shot (sliced jalapenos and pepperoni), Kyiv (garlic and herb butter), Italian stallion (topped with bolognese) and Pommie. And all this with chips and salad.

As such a newcomer to the dish, it is not for me to get involved in what should or should not constitute parmo ingredients (and despite my naivety on the matter, I'm well aware there tends to be controversy when non-Teessiders stick their oar in).

I confess, a lot of my parmos came home with me ready for lunch for the following day, but what I did manage was completely delicious. The chicken was juicy, the breadcrumbs nicely crispy, and béchamel sauce/cheese topping richly satisfying.

The up-side of the platter was getting a variety of flavours – my favourite topping was the Italian stallion, least favourite the Pommie (this is no reflection on those great nations, I just don't love BBQ sauce). The down-side was the cheese headache which lasted all weekend.

Claire, who has some self control, ordered chicken shawarma (just the one), which came with two flatbreads, chips and salad. She found it flavoursome, and filling, but not in such a heavy way as my choice. In a sisterly spirit of helpfulness, she also tasted a few of my parmos, making my takeaway box a tad more respectable.

Chicken shawarma with flatbreads and chips

Chicken shawarma with flatbreads and chips

The Marshall's atmosphere was distinctly upbeat, while service throughout was excellent. All four members of staff we spoke to were chatty and made sure we had everything we needed every time they came to our table.

The bill, which included a ten per cent service charge, two glasses of wine and half a lager, came to a smidge over £63, which, bearing in mind I'd ordered enough food to last a full weekend, seemed okay value.

Had it lived up to the promise of "an adventure with a pinch of intrigue"? Well I suppose that depends on what you class as intriguing. But it was certainly a different dining experience (in a good way), and taught me a very important lesson – when it comes to ordering a parmo, less is most certainly more.

Marshall's

68 High St, Yarm, TS15 9AH

01642 989750

marshalls-yarm.co.uk/

Open, Monday to Thursday, 12pm to 8.30pm (last table booking), Friday and Saturday, 12pm to late (last food order 9pm), Sundays 12pm to 4pm (last table booking)

Ratings (out of ten): Surroundings 8 Food quality 8 Service 9 Value 8