Eating Out: 'They do things properly at the Stapylton'

An Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty to the south of the North York Moors, I have always considered the softly undulating landscape to be the equal of its big brother national park to the north.

But how national parks and ANOBs were originally mapped out is lost in the arcane detail of the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act of 1949. Indeed under the Act they are meant to be of similar landscape quality but nevertheless different. Something to do with which set of bureaucrats and councils decide whether you can put up a garden shed I think.

But whatever, it’s a damn fine spot – or series of spots – and a favourite is the area around Byland Abbey between chocolate-box village of Coxwold and rather more austere Ampleforth.

Before all you picky people jump on the fact that these three places are actually just within the National Park boundary, I’ll just say beauty knows no artificial boundaries and they are definitely not on the moors.

Byland’s Abbey Inn, in the shadow of the spectacular Cistercian abbey ruins, used to be a regular destination for us, to stay or to eat, when it was first refurbished 25 or more years ago.

But things seemed to go awry with a series of new people at the helm, then it closed, was bought by English Heritage, re-opened as a tearoom and wedding venue and frankly I don’t what it offers now. It’s website and Facebook page suggest it is open for lunch, dinner and drinks but the only menus available are for a sample Christmas dinner and New Year’s Eve. Which New Year is not indicated.

Happily, just up the road in the village of Wass is the Stapylton Arms, or the Wombwell Arms as it was known before the current couple – Robert and Gill Thompson – took it over in 2016.

It is definitely open on a regular basis and, indeed, the week we were there they had just extended their Sunday opening hours.

The Stapylton Arms at Wass

Before they arrived in Wass, the Thompsons had been at the White Swan in nearby Ampleforth for 13 years. So they know their way round the hospitality block in these parts, so to speak.

The Stapleton has a stolid air about it befitting a structure that dates from the 16th Century. Refurbished by the Thompsons, it boasts a traditional North Yorkshire country pub feel – stonework, slabs, beams, oak bar – with more modern touches which allow diners coming for a posh-ish meal or punters in for a quick pint feel equally at home.

The Sunday lunch menu is a similar blend of ancient and modern.

Dining at the Stapylton Arms at Wass

They do things properly at the Stapylton. From the crisp white table linen changed between every set of diners, the decent servings of butter with the fresh bread rolls to the separate gravies depending on which roast meat you had chosen.

And our choices were splendid. Sylvia’s leg of lamb was lean, thickly-sliced and tender, my loin of pork was moist, well-flavoured and the crackling was crisp and salty.

Everything that accompanied the main event was up to standard – light and fluffy (if slightly under-seasoned) Yorkshire puddings, golden roasties and a fine selection of al dente vegetables including carrots, broccoli and cauliflower cheese.

The bar at the Stapylton Arms at Wass

We also had starters. My warm crab and cheese tart was a subtle blend of flavours – the filling in a beautifully short pastry case and a dollop of creamy and fragrant saffron mayonnaise on the side along with a nicely dressed green salad.

Sylvia’s tomato and roasted red pepper soup, sprinkled with croutons, was sweet, ever-so slightly spicy and piping hot. Very good.

As was the blackberry and apple crumble served with lots of custard which we shared.

It was a very busy Sunday service and we got the impression the staff were pretty pushed but our waitress was very friendly, one of those naturally-bright and personable characters that make the difference between okay service and something a bit special.

The bill was just shy of £60 with about £14 of that on soft drinks, a pink gin and a glass of wine – which on the face of it seemed a little steep. But then I did a reality check. This is post-pandemic 2022 and the price of a very good quality Sunday lunch served by lovely people in an idyllic spot costs more than it once did. That’s just how it is.

The Stapylton Arms

Wass, North Yorkshire YO61 4BE

Tel: 01347 868280 Web: www.stapyltonarms.co.uk

Open for food: noon-2pm, 6-9pm seven days a week

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 9 Service 9 Surroundings 8 Value 8