WHAT I have valued most in recent months about the gradual return to something akin to normality in this crazy, crazy world is being waited on.

That must sound a bit, well, pompous – arrogant even – but what I mean is this. Most places can produce edible food these days so what makes the difference is the service, the welcome, the smile, the right degree of attentiveness and that feeling of wellbeing which comes from being looked after by somebody who actually cares that you're having a good time

Most of us have eaten well – perhaps too well – during the last 16 months. We’ve either spent more time in our kitchens developing our inner Nigella Lawson or Jamie Oliver, or we’ve discovered the delights of the takeaway meal.

For us the takeaway meal has been a professional imperative in order to help meet the needs of this column. So right now, if I don’t have to order another takeaway for at least a year, that’ll be just fine and dandy.

One of the better takeaway experiences during last year’s lockdown was at the Wellington Heifer in Ainderby Steeple, near Northallerton – high-end pub food thoughtfully packaged and presented.

We looked forward to the day when we could eat the same food in the Heifer and thought we’d probably have another takeaway at some point during this year’s restrictions.

Trouble was the Heifer suspended the takeaway service after Christmas, deciding that was the best time to carry out a refurbishment and extension – creating a bigger dining area/function room, new kitchen and additional bedroom accommodation.

It was all completed in the nick of time for the May re-opening and it all looks very good, with the Heifer retaining the understated classic country inn style which is its hallmark.

Nothing about what owner Rob Gilpin and his does team could every be described as flash. Tasteful certainly, but nothing which would scare the locals or, for that matter, fail to impress those from further afield. It’s one of those places where the moment you walk in you feel at home.

Rob’s a very good host, with many years in hospitality under his belt, and is adept at putting everyone at their ease, including his young team who serve with a maturity beyond their years which I guess is down to their training.

It's only right to point out that we are known to the host, but nothing we have heard would suggest we were treated any differently to any other customer who walked through the door.

And we were treated royally from a moment a pint of Black Sheep and a chilled glass of Picpoul arrived at our table until the point at which we paid our modest bill.

That bill would have been even more modest if we’d fetched up before 6.45pm or at lunchtime when the set menu is available for a very tempting £13.95 for two courses or £16.95 for three.

You can eat modestly from the a la carte too, but we weren’t doing modesty this Saturday evening and kicked off with one of the sharing platters, of which there are three: a tapas board, a whole baked Camembert with cured meats and, our choice, the seafood platter (£14.95).

This was a generously-filled board which would have kept, at pinch, four people happy and made gluttons of two – like us.

So I ate rather a lot of mildly cured smoked salmon and Sylvia devoured most of the succulent garlic king prawns. I had the lion’s share of the crispy calamari and the whitebait while Sylvia cornered the mini prawn cocktail. Happily our tastes in seafood are complementary. The platter also came with a dressed salad garnish and some brown toast.

My follow-up was a summery asparagus, pea, broad bean and mixed herb risotto (£12.95) completely lacking in stodginess and with some bite left in the rice.

It was beautifully presented on the plate, as was Sylvia’s rump of lamb with minted new potatoes, buttered savoy cabbage and a red wine jus (£17.95).

The “superbly lamby” lamb and potatoes did for Sylvia, so I was left to indulge myself with the rhubarb frangipane tart which was served with a smear of lemon curd and some stem ginger ice cream. Very lovely it was too.

With a large Baileys liqueur, a coffee, the Black Sheep and a small individual bottle of Prosecco, the bill was a very respectable £75.

With the excellent service and the comfortable surroundings, we thought that was pretty good value for a lovely evening.

Church View, Ainderby Steeple, Northallerton DL7 9PU

Tel: 01609 775718

Web: thewellingtonheifer.co.uk

Disabled access. Vegetarian/gluten free options

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 10. Service 9. Surroundings 9. Value 10