Lizzie Anderson shuns the bright lights of Tokyo in favour of the spectacular scenery and centuries-old traditions outside Japan's capital
THERE are moments in life so special that even as we live through them we are aware of the lasting impression they are making upon us. All of our senses heighten as we strive to capture every detail of what will inevitably become a treasured memory.
During my recent trip to Japan, I experienced such a moment. It was a crisp December morning and I was eating my breakfast on the balcony of my glamping pod at Hoshinoya Fuji in the Yamanashi Prefecture. A breathtaking view of the snow-capped Mount Fuji lay before me, and the tempting smells of my breakfast mingled with the fresh scent of red pine trees. The air was cool, but I was cosy and warm thanks to my heated seat and blanket. It was beautiful; it was peaceful; it was perfect.
The ability of nature to heal the body, mind and soul is a widely-held belief in Japan. City dwellers regularly escape to the mountains and national parks to exercise, soak in hot springs and visit temples. Over next few years, millions of tourists are expected to descend on Japan as the country hosts the 2019 Rugby World Cup and 2020 Olympics. It is hoped these visitors will also venture beyond the bright lights of Tokyo to explore the beautiful countryside on the city’s doorstep.
My Japanese adventure is one I shall never forget. It began in the Yamanashi Prefecture, home to the iconic volcano, Mount Fuji, on the main island of Honshu. Our first stop was the Nishizawa Gorge, where we enjoyed a guided walk led by a forest therapist who encouraged us to utilise all of our senses. From closing our eyes to listen to the sounds of the wind in the trees, to admiring the spectacular waterfalls, the walk proved just the tonic to our 11.5-hour flight.
A visit to an old Japanese guest house in Kamijo Village was another highlight. Tourists can hire the Kamijo Kominka for about 50,000 JPY (£350) a day and learn how to chop wood and cook houtou noodles on a sunken fireplace. I particularly enjoyed making sticky rice treats known as mocha, which involved hitting the rice with a hammer.
Wine lovers should visit Grace Winery, a family business at the forefront of the region’s growing wine industry. We sampled locally made wine created from the popular Koshu grape, which suits the light Japanese cuisine.
To experience the deeply spiritual side of Japan, a trip to a shrine or temple is a must. We visited the Erin-ji Temple, where the 16th century Samurai lord turned monk Takeda Shingen is buried. Visitors can also relax in the beautiful garden, learn zen meditation techniques, experience a tea ceremony or create a miniature garden.
And then of course there is the majestic Mount Fuji, a Japanese icon that is often masked by clouds. Thankfully, we were blessed with fine weather and marvelled at the peak in all of its glory from the Arakura Sengen Park viewing point. In April and May this view is enhanced further by Japan’s famous cherry blossom.
We had further opportunity to admire the volcano from Hoshinoya Fuji, the previously mentioned glamping destination. The resort, in partnership with Country Lake Systems, also arranged for us to kayak on Kawaguchiko lake, and cycle on its shores, with the mountain rarely out of our sight.
Another attraction not to be missed is the internationally renowned Kubota Itchiku Art Museum, where intricate kimonos inspired by the changing seasons are proudly displayed.
Japan has a rich cultural heritage, which we experienced in abundance at our second destination, the Kanagawa Prefecture. At the Pola Museum of Art, impressionist masterpieces can be found alongside works by Japanese artists. In the city of Odawara, meanwhile, a Japanese Castle steeped in history is waiting to be explored. The latter may especially appeal to those interested in Samurai culture, with an eye-catching exhibition called the Spirits of Samurai showcasing an array of costumes, weapons and artefacts. And just a few hundred yards from the castle, is a 600-year-old sweet shop and pharmacy called Uiro which has been in the same family for 25 generations. Here we sampled traditional sweets made using a secret family recipe and enjoyed a tour of the free museum connected to the shop.
Kanagawa also boasts many shrines and temples. At the Daiyuzan Saijyo-ji Temple I was moved by the beauty of the buildings and the sense of peace that overcame me when we entered the site. Mindfulness is a longstanding concept in Japan, and we experienced its calming properties at the temple when we carefully copied out sections of the sutra.
Kanagawa is likely to experience an influx of visitors in 2019 as it is home to the International Stadium Yokohoma, the confirmed venue of the Rugby World Cup final. In between games, there will be opportunities for sports fans to explore the area. The more adventurous among them may enjoy the exhilarating zip wires, scramble nets and ropes of the Odawara Forest Adventure.
Japan is a country of contrasts. Modern cities and innovative technologies, are intertwined with centuries’ old traditions and stunning landscapes. This could not be more obvious than when flying through the countryside on the Shinkansen bullet train. It was also apparent in the vastly different but equally wonderful accommodation in which we stayed. At Kikori in Yamanashi and Washintei Hougetsu in Kanagawa, we experienced typical Japanese style, with sliding doors, futon beds and tatami floor mats. We also bathed in onsens, a spa experience not to be missed featuring pools of hot spring water to revitalise body and mind. At Hoshinoya Fuji we enjoyed the height of luxury in the great outdoors; while at the Hilton Odawara Resort and Spa we experienced modern comforts and more.
Food lovers will also be spoilt for choice. During our visit we feasted on fresh seafood, sushi, rice, tempura vegetables, salads, meat, miso soup, tofu and more. There were also plenty of Western dishes to choose from especially in the buffet style restaurants.
There is so much to love about Japan, but what impressed me most are the people. Everyone we encountered was polite, welcoming and appeared genuinely thrilled to share their culture and traditions with us.
I hope to return to Japan one day, but until then all I need to do is close my eyes and transport myself back to that December morning at Mount Fuji.
TRAVEL FACTS
British Airways currently offers return flights from London to Tokyo starting at £517 and ranging to £971 in August. The airline also offers connecting flights from Newcastle. Visit britishairways.com
ACCOMMODATION
Hotel Kikori: A traditional Japanese hotel in Yamanashi. Prices start at £85 per person per night, including dinner and breakfast. Visit: yamashita.gr.jp/mizuho/index.html
Hosinoya Fuji: A glamping resort in Yamanashi. Prices start at £283 per person per night not including dinner or breakfast. Visit hoshinoyafuji.com/en
Washintei Hougetsu: A traditional Japanese hotel in Kanagawa. Prices start at £212 per person per night including dinner and breakfast. Visit: hakone-hougetu.com/english/en/tariff/index.html
Hilton Odawara Resort and Spa: A luxurious hotel in Kanagawa. Prices start at £92 per person per night including breakfast. Visit: hilton.com/en/hotels/japan/hilton-odawara-resort-and-spa-TYOODHI/index.html
All prices are subject to change depending on the season, accommodation package and exchange rate.
USEFUL LINKS
Yamanashi Prefecture
www.yamanashi-kankou.jp/english
www.jnto.go.jp/eng/regional/yamanashi
Kanagawa Prefecture
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