Andrew Douglas experiences rocky mountain highs on a rail journey to the top of Europe

AWESOME is an overused word. It was, however, the only one to spring to mind as, rooted to the spot, I tried to take in a truly astonishing panorama.

The only noise came from the gentle chirping of crickets and the clank, clank of cow bells as the morning sunshine bathed the high alpine meadows in its glorious warmth.

From my 3,487ft vantage point, I gazed out across the valley to the jagged mountains beyond. Grey rock faces rose up from lush lowlands and verdant green forests before craggy snow-capped peaks greeted the rich blue sky.

Earlier I'd sauntered the five minutes from my hotel in Meiringen and caught a cable car up to Hasliberg Reuti before following the hour-long trail back down - with an exciting side trip to the impressive Alpbach Gorge.

Every holiday should have moments like this. Moments which make you wonder, make you feel glad to be alive. Moments you will always remember. This was truly awesome.

Fortunately, any visit to the Jungfrau Region, in the heart of Switzerland, offers up such moments by the bucket load. If you're unconvinced then UNESCO designated 512 square miles - taking in almost all the Bernese High Alps - as a World Heritage Site, with the famous triumvirate of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains at its heart. This is a region famous for its glacier-fed lakes of pure turquoise, tumbling mountain streams and so many spectacular waterfalls they are in danger of becoming mundane.

I was sampling the highlights of the ten day Jungfrau Express 2016 rail holiday offered by York-based Great Rail Journeys. As well as the return rail trip from London, it also offers a fly-rail option - together with a huge selection of other rail-based holidays around the globe. The guided itinerary selects the best from a region packed with superlatives and includes an unforgettable journey aboard the Jungfrau Railway to the Jungfraujoch – Top of Europe.

Europe’s highest railway station sits between the peaks of the Monch and Jungfrau at 11,333ft. Part of the complex below the Sphinx viewing platform passes through tunnels and a subterranean ‘palace’ carved from ice. On a fine day the view takes in 200 other mountain peaks and stretches from Italy to the Vosges in France and the Black Forest in Germany.

If you’ve time there’s a stunning 45 minute walk out along the upper Aletsch Glacier – the largest in Europe - to the Monchsjoch Hut at 12,001ft.

The Jungfraujoch attracted a million visitors last year and, despite the crowds, this remains a very special place - although not if you're averse to selfie sticks.

The journey to the Jungfraujoch aboard the cog railway is equally spectacular, either via Grindelwald or the stunning Lauterbrunnen valley. Both routes meet at Kleine Scheidegg, nestling in the shadow of the legendary Eiger. After a change of trains, you embark on an unbelievable feat of engineering – entering a tunnel passing up through the mountain's infamous North Face. There is also chance to alight at the Eigerwand station where a viewing gallery looks out from the middle of the fearsome North Face - providing passengers with a privileged vantage point.

Not only is it spectacular, but the Nordwand – a vertical mile of unstable rock and ice, subject to sudden and violent changes in weather - has played host to many a real life and death drama. It has claimed the lives of more than 60 climbers and, despite being conquered in 1938, is still considered one of the world’s most challenging rock faces.

British mountaineers were among the first ‘modern’ tourists to discover the Bernese Oberland in the early 19th century. They were followed by a steady stream of romantics, artists and poets - including Lord Byron in 1816 – seeking inspiration. Little has changed and the landscape still weaves its serene and magical spell. In 1911, JRR Tolkein visited the Lauterbrunnen Valley and made a number of drawings of its steep cliff walls and magnificent waterfalls, thought to be the inspiration for some of the Middle Earth landscapes of The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings.

Great Railway Journey's tour base at the Parkhotel du Sauvage in Meiringen also has a strong literary connection. Sherlock Holmes author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle was a regular visitor to the hotel, then the Englischer Hoff, and was so impressed that it, the town and nearby Reichenbach Falls were immortalised in his novel The Final Problem. It caused a stir worldwide when on May 4, 1891, Holmes and arch enemy Professor Moriarty fell to their deaths down the 393ft falls after a grim struggle.

Today you can access the falls more easily via a funicular railway, which has been running since 1899. There is then a stiff climb to a foot bridge crossing the top of the falls which provides an impressive view. The ledge where the pair plunged from is marked by a plaque and the town remains a place of pilgrimage for fans.

Another great excursion is to the nearby village of Brienz, sitting by the eastern shores of the turquoise coloured lake bearing the same name. Famous for its carvings and violin making, it’s decorated wooden houses once earned it the title of Europe’s most beautiful street.

Brienz is also the starting point of the unique Brienz Rothorn Bahn, a steam rack railway dating back to1892. It still uses three generations of locos built at an angle to deal with the 1:4 incline which rises 4.7 miles through 11 tunnels to a height of 7,362ft to offer up lofty views of the summit, Rothorn Kulm.

It’s also famous for its Steam Sausage Express which runs on Wednesdays. The driver and fireman stop at the Planalp halt and serve up sausages cooked in the loco’s steam kettle Alternatively, you can visit the hotel restaurant which sits just below the summit peak – with an open terrace to enjoy the backdrop of the Bernese Alps.

Other highlights include a gentle boat trip on Lake Brienz or a ride on the Harder Railway up to Harder Kulm, which provides a great place to survey the bustling tourist centre of Interlaken. There is a restaurant at the top, 4,337ft above sea level, along with a gravity defying viewing platform - out to the Eiger Monch and Jungfrau.

The Jungfrau Region offers something for everybody. It has almost 500 miles of walking trails for all abilities, 285 miles of mountain bike trails, eight fixed climbing routes, scooter or ‘Trotti’ bikes to ride down hill as well as summer luges. Those seeking an adrenaline kick can always try tandem paragliding, zip wires, canyoning or bungy jumping.

Or simply just drink in the amazing scenery in a corner of Switzerland where every perspective offers up the extraordinary.

And there is no better view than from the train – which climb along the high valley sides and over lofty mountain passes. Being in Switzerland, they are clean, comfortable and obviously run like clockwork.

While the high cost of living is reflected in everyday prices, the Great Rail Journeys trip includes first class return rail travel from London, four star hotel accommodation with breakfast, a great choice of excursions plus a Swiss Travel Card and Bernese Oberland Regional Pass. These allow half price travel on most trains, buses, and lake steamers during your free time.

The meaning of words may change but the ability of the Jungfrau Region's stunning landscape to instil a little reverential wonder does not. Awesome!

TRAVEL FACTS

Jungfrau Express 2016: 10 days from £1,995 per person

Based in the Swiss town of Meiringen, enjoy journeys by mountain railway and lake steamer. This holiday departs and returns from London St Pancreas via Eurostar. Customers can save up to £75pp when booking 2017 departures on or before August 16, 2016. There is also a seven-day fly rail option from £1,695pp

For more details, visit greatrail.com/tours/jungfrau-express or greatrail.com; Jungfrau Region Tourism at jungfrauregion.ch; Interlaken Tourism at interlaken.ch; Brienz Rothorn Railway at brienz-rothorn-bahn.ch