EVERYTHING was the same in this old city, a dear old town I had known intimately half my life time ago. And everything was different too.

There were still the crowds of humanity: warm people bracing themselves in the cold wind. The pubs were still cheery and bustling, the cafes full, the many theatres and concert halls offering big-name gigs, plays and musicals.

I had known many architecture students in this city in my youth and was always incredulous at how they insisted the buildings of Glasgow surpassed Edinburgh, to me, then, the more obviously attractive city. At last I understood what they were getting at. The sheer variety of buildings and styles, from crazy Mackintosh to sold Victorian Gothic, make the place special.

But, naturally, it was the differences that stuck. For Glasgow has a city centre that has been upgraded. The grander parts of the centre feel like a once glorious but faded hotel being taken over by the Ritz.

Checking at the modern, bright and breezy trendy hotel, Grasshoppers, right next to the Central Station, I meandered over to The Corinthian for lunch in the heart of the fashionable Merchant City. It was a venue I must have meandered past without a second’s thought many, many in my youth: just another big, nameless Victorian half-empty. That was a real waste for, it turns out, this restaurant is one of the most richly elaborate buildings in all Scotland.

Grade ‘A’ listed the former Glasgow Ship Bank, refurbished, I learned, in 1999, is packed with sculptures and decorative features from artisans ranging from James Salmon to James Ballantine.

This day, a Saturday, it’s packed out for lunch. Lots of groups of women having grand high teas and a grand old time. It’s fancy but, at lunch time at least, relaxed and not too pricey. Escorted to a quieter booth to meet a (nearly) long lost old friend, we marvel at ourselves eating the most exquisite steak and the finest of red wines. I recalled my first ever Glasgow meal aged 19 and drunk: deep fried haggis. Some changes are, most certainly, for the better.

It’s time to do what we’re here for: shop. We wander around the boutiques and quirky specialist stores of Glasgow’s ‘style mile.’ It’s not usually my idea of fun, but wandering around the St Enoch Centre and smelling the mouthwatering smells of the street food was pleasurable.

Many of the swishier shops are in and around the exclusive Merchant City and one of the funkiest stores is the Cambridge Satchel Company in the Royal Exchange Square. Its smiley, friendly manager, Jennifer Dagliesh, is keen to talk about this unique bag, purse and satchel store which only ever sells UK-made products. It was set up by young mum Julie Deane who started out with just £600 but who made and designed bags quirky enough for the business to be taken up by Google for a special advertising campaign. Every bag is personalised and as we chat Jennifer kindly makes me a personalised leather tag for my own, much-loved but much-battered leather bag that I’m carrying around. It’s a personal touch very much in keeping with the old-style, high-class shopping which this corner of Glasgow is becoming renowned for.

That night, after getting washed up and brushed up and donning our fancy pants, we head to a new cocktail venue: the Trading House, also near the ‘style mile’ and Merchant City and right next to George Square.

Bar manager is Geordie, Calum Robb, 22, who learned his trade at The Botanist bar in Newcastle. Chatty and full of enthusiasm Calum takes it upon himself to teach us how to make cocktails. It’s a far trickier business than you may imagine, especially at speed. It is real fun, especially using the finest ingredients and we all of us get a bit carried away, cocktail after cocktail on our production line. An experience that comes thoroughly recommended.

We (partially) sober up by eating the homely, pubby food (various first class pies and mashes) and inspecting the book (yes, an entire book, The Anthology of Ales) this places has listing the seemingly endless range of bitters and lagers from around the world.

Happy and fuzzy we leave to be swallowed up by the buzzy Glasgow night.

The following day I lunch alone at Cup of Tea Lounge on Renfield Street. A B-listed Victorian building is manages to be intimate and grand at the same time; a tricky trick summed up by its life-size painting of a young Queen Victoria holding a tea pot. If you make there, and you should, take my advice and go for the £16.95 high tea, complete with champagne and take time to chat to the friendly, informative staff.

A trove new, happy memories for the mind bank I begin to make plans to return.

TRAVEL FACTS

Prices for the three-star Grasshoppers Hotel at 87 Union Street, Glasgow, range from £69- £115. Visit grasshoppersglasgow.com or call 0141 222 2666.

l The Corinthian, on 191 Ingram Street in Glasgow’s Merchant City, offers breakfast, lunch and evening menus and prices vary widely.

l The Glasgow branch of the Satchel Company can be found at 11 Royal Exchange Square.

l The Cup of Tea Lounge is at 71 Renfield Street, Glasgow. Call 0141 3532959 or see cupglasgow.co.uk.