Home to great art, opera and... pesto, Italian port city of Genoa is an overlooked city break destination. Gabrielle Fagan recommends the best way to spend a weekend break

I'M lost in Genoa, wandering through an intriguing labyrinth of ancient cobblestone alleyways so narrow no sunlight can penetrate. Adding to my happy confusion is the feeling that I've stepped back in time and, in a way, I have. These lanes, known as the caruggi, claim to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus - the city's most famous son, and are part of Europe's largest medieval town.

This UNESCO world heritage site, tucked behind a bustling modern port, is redolent with history and atmosphere, and just one of the gems in a fascinating destination all too often overlooked in favour of Italy's big hitters, Rome, Florence and Venice. Autumn's an ideal time to visit because cruise crowds have, in the main, evaporated and it's possible to relax and really appreciate a place Charles Dickens, who spent a year living here, aptly described as a "beautiful confusion" with so much crammed into a thin snaking 30km strip of land, squashed between hills and the Mediterranean Sea.

One of the shopkeepers in the old town, who comes to my rescue with directions, sums up the essence of this capital of the beautiful Liguria region (around 100 miles north east of the French border). "Getting lost in Genoa is easy but is surely one of the city's pleasures, because you never know what you'll find; there are surprises around every corner," says Alessandro Boccardo, the smiling owner of a chocolate shop founded in 1866, which still has the original 19th century machines used to toast cocoa beans.

His store, Romeo Viganotti (on Vico dei Castagna), is just one of 36 artisan shops housed in centuries-old buildings, some still boasting pillars, statues and frescoes from grander days. Here, traditional practices, including tripe making, have been carried on for generations. Tripe? Yes, surprisingly this is a favourite snack for school children who scurry past holding cardboard cones filled with the stuff, an alternative to their other treat, focaccia, the delicious local flatbread.

While the Centro Storico district is charming, it's impossible not to be impressed by the spectacular Rolli Palaces on the Via Garibaldi, dubbed 'the street of kings' - each one more lavish than the last. Three virtually combine to become one huge museum and have stunning frescoes and artworks by artists such as Caravaggio, Rubens, Titian, van Dyck, Gauguin and Veronese. An exhibition, From The Impressionists To Picasso, is the main draw at the Palazzo Ducale from September 25-April 10, and will feature works by Monet, Degas and van Gogh (entry 15 euros; palazzoducale.genova.it).

Another treasure is the magnificent Cathedral of San Lorenzo, which contains the ashes of St John the Baptist. Its striking exterior of black and white marble is characteristic of so many buildings throughout the city. I touch a tiny dog carved into its marble pillars, which is supposed to bring luck.

Lack of space made the Genoese resourceful. To give an impression of majesty and status, they skilfully employed trompe l'oeil painting techniques, and fascias of many buildings are embellished with 'faux' marble pillars, porticos and arches, giving them an elegant theatrical character.

Despite a reverence for the past, this is still very much an authentic working city, where port workers mingle with bankers and tourists.

To get my bearings, I take a bird's-eye view. The city was built in steep tiers like a wedding cake, but I avoid an exhausting climb by using the Art Nouveau lift at Piazza del Portello, up to Spianata Castelletto (0.90 euros). I enjoy a vista stretching from the mountains to the Mediterranean.

Eating and drinking is a serious pastime and I learn one key Genoese phrase 'mescite' (hurry up and pour) as I visit a few of Genoa's cosmopolitan wine bars. One ingredient is also ubiquitous on the restaurant menus - pesto, which originated in the area.

Roberto Panizza, who helps organise the annual Genoa Pesto World Championship, gives me a lesson in making it and sums up his birthplace. "While the port's still the soul of Genoa, this is a multi-faceted city which has so many layers. It takes time to understand it but it's worth it," he says. And I couldn't agree more.

TRAVEL FACTS

Gabrielle Fagan was a guest of the Genoa tourist board. Go to visitgenoa.it/en and turismoinliguria.it/en. Return flights from Gatwick to Genoa start from £81 return with British Airways (britishairways.com)

Where to stay

Melia Genova, www.melia.com

For a tranquil retreat in a central location, the Melia hotel, on quiet tree-lined Via Corsica, is an excellent choice and close to landmarks such as the medieval gates and the city's cathedral of San Lorenzo. The building's imposing art deco exterior was originally designed in 1929, but the interior and facilities are impressively modern. The spa, with pool, gym, Turkish bath and hydro-massage tub, is a soothing haven after a long day's sightseeing, and the Blue restaurant has a great choice of international cuisine and Ligurian dishes. Art, one of the biggest attractions for the city's visitors is reflected in its decor, with displays of installations and photographs by internationally acclaimed Italian artists. Service falls into the 'can't do enough for you' category and staff members are ready and willing to share useful local knowledge.

Doubles from £85 per night with breakfast.

Where to eat

I Tre Merli, www.itremerli.it

The old port, or Porto Antico, has been revitalised with a marina, palm trees and plenty of good restaurants. One of the best places for lunch is the I Tre Merli (The Three Blackbirds). Food is prepared on a traditional wood stove and served on a terrace looking out across the water. Ciupin, a filling traditional thick fish soup, costs 12 euros.

La Casa dei Capitani, www.lacasadeicapitani.it

Find excellent food, atmosphere and service at this charming restaurant in a pink two-storey house with a terrace overlooking the sea in Quinto. Fresh fish is a speciality, and a bouillabaisse-style dish with mussels, calamari and shrimps costs 19 euros.

Where to visit

Head to Nervi

Only three miles from the city centre - and walk down one of Italy's most beautiful promenades. The Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi winds its way for 2km along cliffs and offers stunning coastal views. This easterly suburb also has the city's finest park, where three fine museums are sited. Visit www.passeggiatanervi.it

Experience life in the world's oceans by visiting Genoa Aquarium

Genoa Aquarium is one of the largest indoor aquariums in Europe, designed by Renzo Piano, an architect responsible for Paris' Pompidou centre. There are 70 tanks, and 15,000 animals, including seals, dolphins, piranha and sharks. A family ticket (two adults and two children) costs 65 euros. Visit www.acquariodigenova.it/en