Nicole Gallagher stays in the cool and cutting edge city of Gothenburg – and hits the road by bike to explore further afield
CYCLING around the picturesque streets of Styrso, an island in Gothenburg’s southern archipelago, the cool sea breeze whips through my hair and provides muchneeded relief from the soaring heat of the sun.
I stop off at a hidden little beach cove to watch the boats sailing across the calm waters, and have to remind myself that I’m actually on a city break.
With green fields, woodlands and beaches on its doorstep, Sweden’s second city is far from being a bustling metropolis. Instead, life here is calm and relaxing.
I base myself at the Avalon hotel, in Gothenburg’s downtown. It’s filled with vibrant pieces of artwork and even has a rooftop glass swimming pool protruding over Kungsportsplatsen. It’s quite amusing to stand at street level and look up to watch swimmers paddling their legs in a front crawl.
Styrso, in the Gothenburg archipelago
Outside, the streets are lined with tables full of people catching up over cocktails and fine food. You won’t find anyone rushing around here; the Swedes are too busy being effortlessly cool and calm.
Scandinavians are known for their cutting edge design, and plenty of the bars and restaurants in Gothenburg have a 21st century feel. A fine example is Restaurang Kungstorget, where traditional menus have been replaced by iPads.
After lunch I head to Lilla Bommen, where I watch the boats setting off. I also take the opportunity to do some guerrilla gardening. Instead of flower pots, the dock is lined with planters boasting a selection of free-for-all vegetables.
For a taste of something more traditional, I head to the Haga old town where locals are sat outside enjoying coffees and pastries. I join them and am presented with the largest pastry I have ever seen in my life! It’s a great place to stop and do some people-watching.
In the evening, the air is still warm and the streets are illuminated by restaurants and bars along main road, the Avenyn. People of all ages, are out and about having fun, laughing and dancing.
After a meal at the Restaurang Familjen, I head to Cafe & Bar Grindstugan near the river, where a guitar player is entertaining a crowd.
The next morning, I enjoy a refreshing cycle around the southern archipelago. There is no better way to get back to nature and escape life than on these peaceful islands where few tourists roam. Gothenburg is one city break where none of the city stresses apply.
WHERE TO STAY
Like much of Gothenburg, a new experience lies around every corner in the Avalon Hotel – whether it’s a painting of a naked female, the unanticipated sound of birds tweeting in a hotel corridor, or the infinity rooftop pool. This is what makes it such an exciting place to stay.
The hotel’s own bar, breakfast buffet and restaurant are also top notch.
WHAT TO DO
Cruise the islands: Ferries run regularly from Saltholmen to Gothenburg’s scenic southern archipelago. Styrso is the largest of the islands, just 30 minutes by ferry. Once there, bicycles can be hired for as little as £8 a day. As there are no cars on the islands, cyclists and walkers have free reign of the roads to explore the picturesque fishing villages, summer mansions and scenic coastlines. Ferry times can be found at vasttrafik.se
WHERE TO EAT
- Restaurang Familjen This warm and friendly restaurant is a great place to experience rustic, gourmet food without breaking the bank. Local fish and ingredients. Menus from £33. Visit restaurangfamiljen.se
- Feskekorka The fish church, known to Swedes as Feskekorka, is an indoor fish market between the city centre and Haga old town. The gothic-looking building is also home to Restaurant Gabriel. Visit feskekorka.se
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