AS I look up at the beautiful mosaic ceiling, I sigh indulgently as the masseuse pours silky suds all over my freshly exfoliated skin.

I’m having my first ever Turkish hammam and I like it, a lot. Afterwards, as I’m given a fluffy bathrobe and tucked into a cosy, cushioned alcove, I think to myself: “This is the life.”

In Dubai, where historical landmarks are in short supply, the spa takes centre stage as part of the daytime activities in a girls’ getaway. I’ve come to the emirate with a group of friends, hoping it is worth the six-and-a-half-hour flight. We arrive feeling remarkably fresh after a flight on Royal Brunei’s Dreamliner, which has a special climate control system to help passengers adjust to the time zones.

Almost immediately, I discover the stories I’ve heard about Dubai’s excess and over-thetop luxury are true. Home to the seven-star Burj Al Arab hotel, this is a destination that takes both customer service and grandeur very seriously.

In fact, I find the blissfully serene experience at the Talise Ottoman Spa in the goldencrusted Jumeirah Zabeel Saray hotel on the Palm Island, to be the calm before the hedonistic storm.

On arrival at the hotel – where Hollywood stars John Travolta and Susan Sarandon have stayed – we are instantly made to feel like VIPs.

My fancy hotel room has a view across the sea, and in the morning, speedboats and yachts float past my balcony as the sun twinkles on the still water. In the bathroom there’s a marble tub that would easily fit four people and a gold sink epitomises the excessiveness of a city where there are no limits on how far the decadence can go. The ultimate display of tailored luxury is the dressing gown folded up on my bed which has my name sewn on it.

Mornings are spent taking a dip in a pool lined with palm trees, followed by a stroll along the private beach in front of the hotel.

In pursuit of memorable eats, we book into the famous Friday brunch at the hotel’s Imperium restaurant. It’s a whopping three hours of culinary self-indulgence.

Lebanese dishes, sushi, trays of roast meat, oysters, pies, breads and a whole lot more take pride of place on beautifully decorated tables in a huge dining room lit by chandeliers.

After eating, we struggle across town to get a taste of what it’s like to stay in the city itself, moving into the Jumeirah Emirates Towers.

Here, from my bed, I look out at the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, through an enormous floor-to-ceiling window. To get a feel for the more traditional side of Dubai, we go on a Platinum Heritage desert safari and have breakfast with a Bedouin man who claims he doesn’t know what age he is or how many children he has.

We travel in an open-top vintage Land Rover through the Arabian sands, before arriving at a camp where we’re served noodles with oregano-soaked bread.

After a quick puff on the strawberry-flavoured shisha, it’s time for the obligatory camel ride, prompting giggles aplenty. In the afternoon, we take to the skies for a sightseeing ride by helicopter.

From my bird’s eye view, I can confirm that The Palm really is shaped like a palm tree, and the Burj Khalifa sparkles just as much from above.

With dreamy spa treatments, excellent food and hedonistic parties, our girlie group returns home happy with a whole new perception of Arabian nights.

Travel facts

Travelbag (www.travelbag.co.uk; 0845 543 6615) offers two nights at the five-star Jumeirah Zabeel Saray on The Palm (half-board) and two nights at the five-star Jumeirah Emirates Towers (half-board) from £779 per person, including flights from Heathrow. Book by June 30 for travel in July 2014.