I AM sitting in the cloisters of a 15th century convent sipping wine and eating a rustic dish of tender partridge, flavoursome chorizo and Portuguese rice. No, I have not joined a religious order, I am in what is now a luxurious five-star hotel, on a culinary tour of Portugal’s Alentejo region. In other words, I am in food heaven.

As I quickly discovered, the Portuguese are passionate about fresh ingredients, fantastic flavours and big portions.

Every dish is prepared with love and is best served with friends, old and new.

My adventure began two days earlier when I boarded an East Coast main line train at Durham. Less than three hours later, I arrived at London King’s Cross in plenty of time to catch my TAP Portugal flight to Lisbon. The Portuguese capital sits on the banks of the River Tagus (Tejo), which forms the northern boundary of the Alentejo. Predominantly rural, the region covers almost a third of Portugal and is characterised by beautiful countryside, white beaches, amazing gastronomy and an abundance of architectural and archaeological treasures.

Our group’s first destination was the coastal town of Sines. We arrived at about 7pm and headed straight to our home for the night, Hotel Vila Park, a well-situated establishment, with a fantastic restaurant. It was here that I was introduced to monkfish and octopus, sampled my first Portuguese desserts – rich, sweet and highly recommended – and discovered the fruits of the region’s vineyards.

On this occasion, I restrained myself on said “fruits” as we had a 5am start the next day. Our tour guide Sophia assured us that a trip to the harbour was not to be missed and she was right.

I will never forget the beautiful sunrise that illuminated the fishermen as they sorted through the morning’s catch.

In a few hours, we would sample some of this fish for ourselves, but first there was sightseeing to do.

First up, was Sines Castle, a magnificent 15th-century building, with an interesting museum containing many ancient artefacts. The castle is believed to have been the birthplace of the famous navigator, Vasco da Gama (1469-1524), who discovered the Maritime Way to India. A statue of the seafarer can be found outside the castle walls, while the nearby Church of Nossa Senhora Das Salas, which he rebuilt to celebrate his success in India, also serves as a lasting reminder.

At midday we headed to Arte e Sal, a friendly establishment metres from the beach.

For starters, we gorged on sardines, succulent prawns in a creamy coconut sauce, and a selection of Portuguese sausages. This was followed by a truly amazing main course, featuring a whole sea bass and sea bream. Dessert was a scrumptious combination of egg yolk, cinnamon, sugar and oranges.

However, our day of indulgence did not stop there.

After an hour-and-a-half bus journey, we arrived at the Adega da Cartuxa vineyard on the outskirts of the city of Avora. Wine has been produced on the estate for centuries and visitors can enjoy a tour of the facility, as well as wine tasting sessions.

Located inland, Avora is a sun-soaked city with striking architecture, Roman ruins and a hotel unlike any I have stayed at before. The Covento do Espinheiro is a 15thcentury convent that has been lovingly restored into a five-star hotel.

During our two-day stay we visited its spectacular chapel, attended a cookery class with the head chef, sampled homemade olive oil under a 1,000-year-old olive tree, peeked inside suites where royalty once rested, relaxed by the swimming pool and indulged in a massage at the spa.

On our first night, we dined out at the fantastic D Joaquim, one of Avora’s most popular restaurants, but the remainder of our meals were taken in the hotel and proved as spectacular as the surroundings.

Avora itself has a lot to offer.

Highlights include the stunning cathedral and the eerie yet serene Temple of Bones.

Built in the 17th century, the temple’s interior is covered with bones from the city’s cemeteries. It is a place to reflect on the fragility of human existence.

For those seeking further culinary delights, a short drive will take you the picturesque town of Arraiolos.

There you will find Herdade da Amendoeira, a working farm and B&B that produces cheese, liqueurs and honey.

At nearby Pousada da Na Senhora, meanwhile, you can indulge on chicken pie, pig cheeks, pecan tart and other local delicacies.

Here in the cloisters, as I reflect on the marvels I have seen and eaten over the past few days, the pressures of everyday life may loom on the horizon, but nothing can spoil this moment.

“Another glass of wine?” I don’t mind if I do.

Travel facts

  • Travel from North-East to London by East Coast main line (eastcoast.co.uk). TAP Portugal flies from Manchester, London Heathrow and Gatwick to Lisbon up to nine times daily, with return fares starting at £116, including taxes and surcharges (0845-601-0932, flytap.com). A double room with breakfast at Hotel Vila Park (vilapark.com) costs from £68 to £110. Contact +351-269750 100 or info@vilapark.com. A double room with breakfast at Hotel Convento do Espinheiro (conventodoespinheiro.com) costs from £250. Contact +351-266-788229 or info@conventodoespinheiro.com.