On a cruise through Eastern Europe, John Hobbs discovers some surprising changes taking place on the banks of the River Danube

MUCH food for thought here. As the Danube – no longer the blue hue immortalised in the waltz by Johann Strauss, but rather a murky green – flows south, it reflects many of the hard-fought changes taking place in this once war-ravaged part of Europe.

The legacy of recent conflict remains in cities such as Belgrade, but it is tempered by a growing effort to create a fresh vibrant image, much of it built around tourism.

The Serbian capital was first port of call on this Uniworld river cruise aboard the River Ambassador. From our mooring, we embarked on a bus tour that swiftly illustrated Belgrade is very much a city of two parts.

In the heart of the city, crumbling ruins bear testament to centuries of battles against Turkish, Russian and German invaders.

More recently, Nato’s bombing of Belgrade and the subsequent overthrow of president Slobodan Milosevic, who died in 2006 before his trial for war crimes had ended, has left its mark.

Contrast the ruins of Milosevic’s mansion on a wooded hillside – it had 19 bathrooms, two purely for dogs – with the grim housing estates built for citizens by their Communist leaders.

Our guide on this tour, Evica Simic, is quick to point out a high level of corruption from the Milosovec era still being nurtured by his cronies.

Hence, the total lack of state support for the repair and upkeep of such magnificent buildings as the 16th century St Sava Cathedral, the largest Orthodox church in the world.

“God knows when the repairs will be completed,”

says Evica.

On our journey back to the ship, we see evidence how Belgrade is battling to repair its war-torn image. An Irish pub is followed by an array of modern bistros and upmarket boutiques. Outside one fashion store, its owner lights a cigarette. Below her on the pavement sits an old woman, begging with plastic bag in hand. An image hard to forget.

Back on ship, we sample the excellent cuisine and attention to service that has made Uniworld a world leader in river cruising.

Cruise manager Piet Abbeloos explains how the company has helped make itsmark on the East European economy by buying in much of its produce from local outlets.

My Balkan borscht with sour cream and fresh dill starter, followed by Serbian grilled corn chicken with bell pepper tomato stew, proved to be a memorable gastronomic adventure.

Equally memorable was the excellent and attentive service provided by the River Ambassador’s restaurant staff, led by Bulgarian Dimitar Nikolov, throughout the whole of our cruise.

Excellent, too, was our cabin on the River Ambassador with a French balcony opening up fine views across the Danube and an en-suite bathroom, tiled with white Italian marble.

A more intimate dining delight lay in store the following day – in a Croatian villager’s kitchen. After docking in the Croatian port of Vukovar, we were transported though miles of rolling fields to a village just outside the city of Osijek, where we were divided into small groups and were treated to a traditional lunch in a Croatian kitchen.

With hens outside and the occasional cat peering around the door, we sat down to home-made goulash, barbecued chicken and fresh salad and vegetables from the garden outside.

All washed down with wheat beer and local wine.

The Americans in our party loved it. So did we.

In stark contrast was our next port of call, the Hungarian capital, Budapest, now well established as a major tourist destination.

Breathtaking architecture and an inspired tour up Castle Hill and around St Stephen’s Basilica was rounded off by a visit to the three-storey Central Market Hall, built at the end of the 19th century.

This was a cruise crammed with historic delights, eloquently described by local guides. No more so than our next stop at Bratislava, the Slovakian capital, a thriving commercial centre, but with a village-like atmosphere. A must-see for the visitor are the handsome homes of Austro-Hungarian nobility.

Finally, we sailed into Vienna, arguably one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

So rich in art and music, it proves difficult to decide where to start. Even those modern glass-roofed edifices that have sprung up in recent years blend tastefully with the city’s wealth of palaces.

Our tour was lucky to focus on one masterpiece taking centre stage at the Kunstkammer Museum, the Benvenuto Cellini saliera, or “golden saltcellar”, regarded by many as the greatest piece of goldsmith’s art in the world.

Stolen in 2003, it was mysteriously returned in 2006. It’s described as “one of the handful of artworks you have to see before you die”.

Music is at the heart of Viennese life. There are at least 35 concerts each evening in the Austrian capital. Ours, in a concert room in a former Hapsburg palace, was dominated by the works of Mozart and Strauss. But as I listened to the waltzing tones of the latter’s Tales From the Vienna Woods my thoughts returned to the old quarter of Belgrade – and that image of an old woman begging on the street outside a trendy boutique.