In search of a top-notch seaside staycation with his family, Richard Mulligan heads to Carbis Bay and finds Cornish charms galore

THERE it is, that shimmering light, that jewel stretching down from the clifftop to the sandy beach.

The resplendent Carbis Bay Hotel, the base for our week-long family holiday in Cornwall - and it's just come into view from our boat.

That introduction may seem a little over the top for a hotel, but the Carbis Bay is rather special.

We're out on a Hawaiian canoe, discovering the hidden coves of this area, just a mile or so from St Ives.

Our guide is Ocean Sports Centre owner Glenn, a man with genuine insight and passion for the region's craggy coastline and varied marine life, some of which we've spotted through the glass viewing panels in the hull of our canoe today.

Glenn's also wowed the kids with talk of pirates, ancient shipwrecks and treasure islands and, as we gently paddle back to Carbis Bay beach, the only Blue Flag beach to be privately owned by a hotel in the UK, I think there cannot be a more glorious destination in the country.

After reaching the sand, we disembark. A two-minute climb up the hill takes us up to the hotel, which boasts views of the beach and brilliant blue sea beyond.

Lucky visitors have been enjoying this view since the hotel was built in 1894 by celebrated architect Silvanus Trevail. While Trevail committed suicide in a train lavatory in 1903, the hotel enjoyed a glorious start to the 20th century and was the inspiration for former guest Virginia Woolf's 1927 novel To The Lighthouse, her ode to the nearby Godrevy beacon.

The hotel suffered in the post-war period, largely due to lack of investment, but began a magnificent revival when it was taken over in the early 1980s. While others in the area faltered and closed down, the Carbis Bay Hotel has gone from strength to strength.

Years of continuous development have created a fabulous fusion of old and new.

Wonderfully spacious marble interiors in the main reception areas and luxurious furniture and intricate timberwork in the charming conservatory are a nod to antiquity, while the heated outdoor swimming pool and brand new terrace with breathtaking views of the shore are signs that the owners' continuing efforts to keep standards up are working.

A £6m development plan for the next decade includes new leisure facilities that will make the resort a destination for all seasons.

Not that there's much missing at the moment, with 47 guest rooms and seven apartments that offer their own individual delights. Our apartment was set over two floors and featured two double bedrooms, two plush marble bathrooms, a cosy living room and dining area and a well-presented kitchen with all mod cons.

Apartments are ideal for young families like mine, with two children aged five and two, going to bed early and waking up at the crack of dawn to make the most of the DVD player.

Each apartment has its own parking space and, while a little seclusion is nice, it's just a hop, skip and jump to the main hotel. There's also a kids' club, a joy for parents and kids alike.

Another treat is dining at the hotel's Sands Restaurant, which offers the kind of seafood one would hope to find in this part of the world - mussels, cod, pollock and bream, as well as Cornish sirloin steak, lamb and guinea fowl breast.

The hotel hosts 150 weddings a year, with couples from all over the UK and as far away as Australia choosing to exchange vows here.

While beach lovers may simply fancy a week down on the Carbis Bay sands, those after a bit more action are just around the corner from St Ives. It's an easy drive, a pleasant journey by train and an even better walk by coastal path.

Fish and chips, cream teas, ice cream, quaint art and winding streets have helped make St Ives one of Cornwall's most popular resorts, but you also can't miss the opportunity to hit the open water for a journey to Seal Island with St Ives Boats, based just outside the town's lifeboat station.

Viewing the rugged coastline as the boat smashes over waves for 6km, before finally reaching Western Carracks, where dozens of seals play in the water or simply bask in the sun on the rocks, makes for a brilliant, memorable holiday experience.

No trip to Cornwall would be complete without a day at the Eden Project, which has become one of the UK's most celebrated attractions since it opened in 2001.

The attraction is famous for two vast domes - the Rainforest biome and Mediterranean biome - with acres and acres of gardens and The Core, an interactive learning zone that's bound to wow the kids. There are fun outdoor activities too, with a bit of den-building from recycled materials a pretty good way to spend an hour or so of the visit.

I'm not sure what Trevail would make of our ramshackle effort, but I'm a huge fan of his work.

Almost 125 years after he cut his finest gem on Cornwall's coast, the Carbis Bay Hotel remains a masterpiece and the owners' bold plans for the coming years guarantee a golden future.

Travel Facts

Carbis Bay's self-catering accommodation includes a range of luxury apartments, traditional granite-built cottages, contemporary beach houses, comfortable bungalows and other properties.

Prices start from £655 for seven nights. Shorter stays and mini breaks are also available on request.

For further information and the latest special offers, call (01736) 795311 or visit www.carbisbayhotel.co.uk