THE season for stuffing yourself with turkey and stuffing was in full swing when we stepped out, and so, wanting an escape from the festivities, we opted for Italian.

Uno Momento in Stokesley has a modest High Street frontage and so we almost missed it among the bigger, brasher premises that make this pleasant town an attractive place to head for a meal out in the evening.

Like Yarm, the town’s nocturnal economy seems dramatically transformed from the sleepy state I recall during a childhood spent a few villages away.

It was the last Monday before Christmas, so unsurprisingly there appeared to be one or two other groups who were out with colleagues for their annual bash. The atmosphere was festive.

This North Yorkshire café restaurant has been around for almost eight years. It has a younger sibling in Darlington’s Blackwellgate, while a third outlet in Middlesbrough was sold last summer and now, no longer connected, trades under a different name.

The Stokesley establishment is thin and long – more cosy than intimate, perhaps more cafe than restaurant, and a bit of a corridor. That said, having booked only earlier that day at a busy time of year, we were not entitled to expect the best of tables.

Service from the young staff was very pleasant and attentive throughout.

With a thick book of a menu, the choice is large, with familiar Italian favourites rubbing shoulders with steaks and standard British pub food (scampi, gammon, fish and chips). Definitely something for everyone.

Anna began with pâté all arancio (£4.95). Three ramekins bore pâté, onion marmalade and prawns with an orange coulis, with parmesan and rocket salad and sliced white toast. The prawns, an odd bedfellow for pâté perhaps, had been advertised as being ‘marinated’ in the orange sauce, but in fact it was simply poured on the top.

I chose calamari fritti (£4.95), lightly battered and deep fried, with a rocket and parmesan salad and dips. It’s a while since I’ve had squid rings – it’s likely to be a longer while until I have them again. They were probably executed perfectly well here, it’s just that at that size they were on the chewy, tasteless side. Dips of sweet chilli sauce, mayo and (I think) a variant of guacamole too run of the mill to lift the dish out of obscurity. To make things worse, I had the beginnings of a cold that slightly deadened my tastebuds – not chef’s fault, of course.

For her main course, Anna was intrigued by the black ravioli (£8.95) – dyed ink-black from olives, the parcels were filled with scallops and chive and soused in a fresh tomato sauce with spring onions, garlic and chilli. They were interesting, the olives adding an umami hit to the pasta which contrasted nicely with the fishy filling.

I also went for something from speciality pastas and risotto menu. My tortellini sorrentina (£8.95) were mushroom-filled and served with the same sauce as the ravioli, but topped with parmesan and mozzarella and baked. The pasta was well-made and the sauce good.

We both followed with chocolate fudge cake (£4.50); Anna declared it to be just how she remembered serving it as a waitress back in the 1980s. I’m not completely sure if that’s a compliment.

We'd both been modest drinkers that night, so together with a lime and soda and glass of house white (no coffees – there were presents to wrap), the bill came to £41.30. It’s pretty good value for food with some authentic Italian touches – rubbery squid aside – and various offers make it even more so.

FOOD FACTS

Uno Momento, 22 High Street, Stokesley, TS9 5DQ
Tel: 01642 713622
Web: unomomentorestaurant.co.uk
Food served: Mon-Thu, 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat 10am-10.30pm; Sun 10am-9.30pm.
Disabled access: Yes
Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 7 Service 7 Surroundings 7 Value 7