PETER BARRON discovers a gem of an authentic Italian restaurant, celebrating its 30th anniversary, in North Yorkshire.

OUR weekend breaks in wonderful Wensleydale are becoming a pleasant habit – not least because they never fail to present new Eating Out opportunities.

My wife Heather and I were back at a favourite haunt, staying in one of the log cabins at racehorse trainer Ann Duffield’s Sun Hill Farm at Constable Burton, and were having a look round the stables.

We were introduced to one of Ann’s owners, the friendly Franco Fantoni, and discovered that he owned an Italian restaurant, called Prima, in Ripon.

We were looking for somewhere to eat out that night so the answer seemed to have been presented to us on a plate. Ripon is only 17 miles from Constable Burton so we booked a table, without telling Franco to ensure there was no special treatment.

Prima Pizzeria is tucked away on the left in Kirkgate, a short walk down the hill from the marketplace and immediately appeals as a traditional, homely Italian restaurant, with cork walls and memories of our silver wedding present to each other were revived by the pictures of Venice on the walls.

It was a Monday night, at 7.30pm, and the restaurant was packed, with a lively atmosphere. There’s a healthy buzz about the place and it’s quickly clear that many of the customers are regulars, on first name terms with the staff.

Franco is very hands-on, flitting around the tables, and too busy to realise that we were the couple from The Northern Echo he’d met earlier in the day.

My wife started with Gnocco Fritto (£4.30) – deep-fried dough balls, served with a pesto and garlic mayonnaise – and she was happy enough with her choice.

My starter was Involtini Valdaosta (£5.95) – filo pastry rolled and filled with fresh asparagus, parma ham and fontina cheese, served with home-made chilli dip. This proved to be one of the tastiest starters I’ve had in a long time.

The starters did take a while to be served but, to be fair, it was busy and we took it to mean that the dishes had been cooked to order.

Heather followed up with Tagliatelle Siciliana (£10.50), with tiger prawns, smoked salmon, and Sicilian pesto and a “touch of cream”. By now, my wife was beginning to fall in love with Prima’s charming ambience and impeccably friendly service, and she declared that her main dish was “gorgeous”.

The Tagliatelle tasted like freshly-made pasta, while the plump, juicy, prawns combined with the salmon to make it one of the best dishes of its kind she’d had in any Italian restaurant.

My main course choice was the Farfalle Sud (£9.30) – butterfly-shaped pasta with smoked chicken breast, bacon, peppers and mushrooms, tossed in olive oil and parmesan cheese, all with a hint of chilli. A generous bowl-full, beautifully-cooked and washed down with a glass of Pinot Grigio Venezia.

My wife couldn’t finish her tagliatelle dish and, without prompting, our waitress asked if she wanted it boxing up to take home. “It tasted just as good the next day,” said Heather.

It was only as we relaxed at the end of the meal, with the evening rush having calmed, that the penny dropped and Franco realised who we were. By then, our verdict was already confirmed – that Prima is a little gem.

The restaurant celebrated its 30th anniversary at the end of November and, over those three decades, it has clearly developed a reputation for good, value for money fresh food, served by smiling, polite staff, in a warm, cosy atmosphere.

Franco, who hails from Milan and previously worked at Bibis in Leeds, is rightly proud of what he has created and we will certainly be back.

With due respect to the Italian chains, like Pizza Express and Pizza Hut, Prima is a proper, authentic Italian restaurant.

FOOD FACTS

Prima Pizzeria, 33 Kirkgate, Ripon, North Yorkshire, HG4 1PB.

Telephone: 01765 602034.

Website: www.prima-ripon.co.uk

Opening hours: Every evening from 5pm-10.45pm. Early-bird set menu – two courses - £13.50 from 4.30pm-6.30pm.

Food: 8

Ambience 8

Service: 8

Value for money: 8