QUITE how a quick refreshment stop on a return from trip from York turned into a serendipitous Sunday lunch, I’m not entirely sure.

Taking the scenic route north, following our nose, brought us to Crayke, between Easingwold and Thirsk – one of those delightful villages on the edge of the Howardian Hills.

The pub there is the Durham Ox. It has an attractive beer garden and with dog in tow it was the ideal spot to stop and break our journey home.

But the ever-so helpful staff spotted us, made it known that dogs were welcome with diners in the bar and proffered menus and it was too easy to change plans, stay and eat.

The Durham Ox is not just any old pub. It is where one of the great modern-day pub partnerships was born. Fifteen years ago Michael Ibbotson, who had extensive hospitality experience in London took over a pub with a great reputation but which was to a large extent based upon past glories.

He restored that reputation to the extent that Chris Blundell, a former director at Morrisons supermarkets (and a nephew of the great Sir Ken Morrison), liked the place so much that he formed Provenance Inns with his new partner and embarked on a steady acquisition of village pubs across North Yorkshire – at a time when the rate of country pub closures was accelerating.

To the Ox was added the Oak Tree at Helperby, the Carpenters Arms at Felixkirk, the Punch Bowl at Marton-cum-Grafton, the Crown and Cushion at Welburn and, most recently, the renowned Black Bull at Moulton, near Richmond.

As the name of the company suggests, local produce is a key ingredient in the recipe along with top notch service and contemporary styling which retains the traditional features of the country pub. Awards have followed by the barrel-load.

We have been big fans of Provenance and have favourably reviewed nearly all their establishments. Our only quibble has been the Provenance mission statement – “Inns in villages you’d like to live in...” which is true but just confirms what I’ve always said about corporate mission statements – 99 per cent of the time they’re pants.

But the Sunday lunch at the Ox is anything but pants. A mercifully short menu features five starters, four roasts, a fish dish and a curry. The dessert is list is also concise.

Skipping a first course, we went for two roasts, beef and lamb. Tempting as a chateaubriand fillet of beef to share was, the price of £59.95 seemed a bit steep for an impromptu bite.

The sirloin (£14.95), my choice, was by no means a disappointment. Sourced from Robin Hirst’s farm at Neasham, near Darlington, this “Grand Reserve” beef was 28-day matured grass-fed and a lovely loose-grained texture. Despite being carved thickly, normally a recipe for toughness, this was as tender as could be and of exceptional flavour – greatly aided by the way the ribbons of fat had all but dissolved.

Sylvia’s was equally enthusiastic about her leg of lamb (also £14.95), again thickly sliced and beautifully sweet.

All the traditional accompaniments were top drawer too. Crunchy duck-fat roast potatoes, modestly proportioned but light Yorkshire puddings, great veg (broccoli, greens, swede and carrot) and proper meat gravies.

Some might observe that £15 for a plate of Sunday lunch in a market where many pubs and even hotels will do three courses for that sum is pricey but portion sizes were substantial, and we were also presented with some lovely warm olive bread before our main dishes arrived. We could have settled for just the one course.

But on the dessert menu, along with slightly depressingly predictable STP, brownie and crème brulee was something billed as the Ox Pavlova (£6.50). Now I’m a sucker for meringue and this promised something special.

It was but not in quite the way I expected. Served on a large dinner plate, the meringue shell was the size of a rugby ball. Rammed with mascapone whipped cream and liberally covered in summer fruits, it was a monster and clearly a dessert to be shared. Sylvia made a fairly pathetic attempt to help out but I largely had to soldier on my own, managing to finish just half of it.

The meringue was spectacular – the ideal blend of crispy sweetness and slight chewy soft toffee texture. We were later informed it was an Australian recipe and only worked if prepared in large quantities. Which is no doubt true but this dish really should be accompanied by a health warning, or at least a suggestion that sharing might be a sensible option.

We were looked after admirably by Paul who his boss will no doubt be pleased to know missed no opportunity to tempt us with drinks, dessert wine, coffee etc. But we were resolute, having originally intended to pop in only for a half of lager and a packet of crisps.

Taking our leave, we noted that apart from the bar where we had eaten, every table was taken and people were being turned away – a recommendation in itself. Our bill with a soft drink and a pint of a light session beer called Guzzler from the York Brewery was £36.40.

FOOD FACTS

The Durham Ox, Westway, Crayke, York YO61 4TE

Tel: 01347-821506

Web: thedurhamox.com

Disabled access. Some vegetarian options

Sunday lunch served: Noon to 3pm.

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality: 10 Service: 10 Surroundings 10 Value 8