A WHILE back we speculated that the reason Northallerton’s evening dining offer was so enduringly moribund was that the good folk of the county town were so stuffed from eating in the many high-quality tea rooms and cafes at lunchtime they couldn’t manage a meal later in the day.

The town’s residents and visiting shoppers are spoilt for choice. Apart from the obvious destinations like Bettys, upstairs at Lewis and Cooper, the Golden Lion and Barkers, there are relative newcomers like the small-but-perfectly-formed Casa Rustica in Barkers’ Arcade and Olivia’s in the High Street. And no doubt we’ve missed loads of others while not even mentioning all the pubs and big corporate coffee chains.

At Barkers, the department store, there’s no fewer than three places to eat, the 1882 cafe on the ground floor, the 1882 bistro on the first and the long-established restaurant to the rear. The 1882 cafe and bistro were created a few years ago as a stylish alternative to the rather old-fashioned cafeteria restaurant. Now, as we reported on the news pages a couple of weeks ago, the restaurant has been refurbished.

Refurbished doesn’t really cover what has been done in this the latest stage in the modernisation of the store, a true Northallerton institution. The whole of the rear of the first floor has been re-shaped. The entrance has moved, the eating area extended to make the most of the views over the Applegarth and it all looks very clean, modern and as with the Tree View Cafe at the store Yafforth furnishing emporium, there are lots of natural touches, most strikingly the screens made of birch branches which appear to be holding the ceiling up.

It also has a new contemporary name – Barkers Kitchen – which the new signage declares is a “Cafe - Restaurant - Gourmet Gifts”. The gourmet gifts part is a clever bit of retailing. Rather than exiting via the gift shop, diners negotiate a chicane of displays of fancy olive oils, posh preserves and a range of culinary-related knick-knackery before they reach the food counters.

And this is the interesting bit. For the all the comprehensive, up-to-the-minute refurbishment, the menu seems just as before. Perhaps the salad range has been extended a bit and rather more attractively displayed, but the range of hot meals offered is pretty much the same. Which again is rather clever. Barkers’ traditional customers are happy to browse attractive displays of extra virgin olive oils and Hungarian artisan smoked paprika but heavens above they don’t want them on their salads or in their stews.

There are perhaps not many restaurants in Britain which still feature mince – plain, straightforward mince – as a main menu option. Served with boiled or mashed potato and carrots and leeks, this is a dish for those with fond memories of 1960s works canteens ¬- like Sylvia.

That said, the mince was way better than we imagine than the fare served in any canteen 50 years ago. Finely ground mince in a well-seasoned, herby and rich gravy, it was just the job for a lunchtime fill-up in the so-called summer of 2015.

My chicken and ham pie was equally filling and substantial. Barkers’ pies are things of beauty. The steak version is superb and this one – a generous slice cut from a 10-inch monster – featured chunky chicken breast and pieces of ham in a smooth, creamy white sauce surrounded by a soft and light shortcrust pastry. I had the same vegetables as Sylvia plus some roast potatoes which were pretty good considering they had been loitering under heat lamps for a while.

Purely in the interests of research and against my better judgment, I returned to the hot serving counter for some banana sponge pudding (well, it was like November outside). As I brought the steaming bowlful to the table I declared I would never finish it. Fortunately, or unfortunately for my waistline, I did. It was that good. Surprisingly light with a sticky banana syrup sauce, it came with lashings of custard (custard should always be served in lashings). Sylvia had a tiny taste of the custard and declared it excellent.

Our bill was £18 and included a diet Coke and a bottle of some lovely Welsh elderflower presse.

Given it is essentially a self-serve cafeteria arrangement, it is difficult to judge service. There was a bit of a delay with the sponge pudding when it was discovered the custard had gone AWOL but other than that the staff were helpful and charming.

A creative blend of the ancient and modern, Barkers Kitchen will do well in a crowded market we suspect.

Food Facts

Barkers Kitchen, High Street, Northallerton DL7 8LP

Tel: 01609 772303

Web: barkers-northallerton.co.uk

Open: Monday-Saturday 9am-4.30pm

Disabled access. Vegetarian options limited to salads

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 8, Service 6, Surroundings 9, Value 8