THE corridor between Darlington and Richmond has become something of a hospitality hotspot in the last year.

The celebrated Black Bull reopened at Moulton to justifiable acclaim, Middleton Lodge then opened its swish Coach House restaurant and rooms and what was the Carlbury Arms at Piercebridge underwent the most dramatic of transformations emerging as the Fox Hole. If you live within spitting distance, a stone’s throw, or at very least a ten minute drive of Scotch Corner you are spoilt for choice when it comes to up-market dining. We could also mention the hotel at the famous junction but we are not sure its in-house Fratello’s Italian-style eaterie really justifies the description of up-market dining

And then there’s also the Shoulder of Mutton at Middleton Tyas, which for years was the best place for a meal hereabouts , but which must have felt the pinch a bit. Owners Kevin and Frances Hacking have responded by expanding their empire, taking on the Beeswing at East Cowton and, most recently, the Blacksmiths Arms at North Cowton.

Like many pubs in small villages, the Blacksmiths has had a chequered recent past. A promising spell as a dining pub majoring on Yorkshire produce didn’t work for long and it has been closed at various times since.

The Hackings called in interior designer/stylist Gill Wilkinson to oversee a refurbishment which has updated the interior so that the 21st century gastropub enthusiast will feel at home without alarming the more traditionalist locals. It is split with the drinking area to the front and dining area to the rear which includes a large conservatory area.

Running the new enterprise is Matthew Baker, who used to be in charge at the King William IV in Barton.

Given the quality dining options available in the area, the Blacksmiths’ fare is sensibly pitched firmly at the pub grub end of the market. It is first and foremost filling fare. Sophisticated it ain’t. On the main menu, there are no salads and no fish that isn’t in batter. There was a salmon dish offered as a special but we were not told about that and only spotted it on a chalkboard near the bar on our way out.

The starters - “Bits ‘n’ Pieces” – were a mixture of sharing platters/boards and more traditional dishes – none of which could really be described as appetisers. For example, a bucket of spicy chicken wings (£7.50) or “Ring o Ring o Onion Rings” (a “pole” of battered onion rings with a mayo dip £5).

We ordered the Pub Grub Sharing Platter (£9.50 or “9 1/2 quid” as the menu listed the price) and almost immediately regretted our choice as we observed the size of the portions emerging from the kitchen. The board of spicy chicken wings, onion rings, spiced wedges, crispy coated prawns and mozzarella dippers, served with sweet chilli and sour cream dips and was more than enough for three, possibly four people – or maybe we are just wimps.

The chicken wings were excellent – juicy, sticky and tender morsels – but the rest was distinctly average and could have come straight from the freezer at Iceland, Sylvia thought. The little clump of limp salad squeezed in between the mountain of deep-fried stuff was a sad apology for something fresh and green.

Warming to the retro feel of the menu. Sylvia had ordered the Old-fashioned Fried Chicken (£9.50) which came in a wire frying basket with a mini pail of twice cooked chips. She wasn’t impressed. The “special crumb” the chicken was coated was anything but. The chicken flesh was variously grey or worryingly pink. The chips were a bit rubbery. Only the coleslaw passed muster.

My beef steak, mushroom and ale pie (£8.50) was an alternative to my unavailable first choice of chicken, leek and pulled ham hock. There were also fish, and three cheese leek and sweet potato versions available.

The flaky pastry pie crust was admirably light without disintegrating at first touch. The pie filling was OK too, the steak filling tender and malty. I suspected some artificial thickener in the gravy.

I’d chosen a buttery mash to accompany the pie (I could have also chosen two kinds of chips or boiled spuds) and some onion gravy (alternatives to this being “meaty gravy” or beer gravy) which seemed a bit unnecessary given the volume of gravy in the pie.

There was also a small bowl of veg, including some rather tasteless sweetcorn and very crunchy broccoli.

Somehow, I found room for a rather average sticky toffee pudding (£5) which came with some very average vanilla ice cream.

The bill, which included three soft drinks, came to £42. I realised when writing this later we had been charged for two puddings.

FOOD FACTS

The Blacksmiths Pub and Kitchen, Myton Terrace, North Cowton, Northallerton, North Yorkshire DL7 0ET
Tel: 01325 378310
Web: blacksmithspub.co.uk (not working yet)
Open: 5-11pm seven days
A few vegetarian options. Disabled access

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 6 Service 7 Surroundings 8 Value 7