HOW to get your elderly mother to eat in a pub-restaurant which has just been fined £12,000 for hygiene offences? Answer: don't tell her. At least not until you're sat on a comfy chair in the place and just about to order her a drink.

I'm not saying my shock revelation actually was the reason why mam ordered a £18, steak, while ignoring my protestations that I could feed myself for a week with such a sum - but it is not to be ruled out either.

The reaction of the owner of this old-fashioned village pub-restaurant to all the bad publicity had impressed me, if not quite as much as the very serious breaches of hygiene at the pub that had led to an outbreak of food poisoning.

Michael Allen Flegg, who has halved his workforce after a devastating fall in sales, had invited us to come and look behind the scenes and is paying out of his own pocket to keep the place afloat. His stated aim is to woo back the lost customers and give the pub he has owned for 32 years to his loyal staff.

All of which is admirable but will probably not appease the 24 paying customers who were struck down with gastroenteritis last year after dining at the pub. Inspectors found filthy conditions and out-of-date food, although, in fairness, Teesside Crown Court was told that 69-year-old Flegg had been away from the business at the time.

Very serious stuff, but, in truth, I had no qualms in taking my mother to eat at what must now, surely, one of the cleanest restaurant in the entire district. The Flegg family, desperately attempting to restore their reputation, have even invited customers to eat in the kitchen. Newspaper photographers have been called in to take pictures of every surface.

Absolutely convinced that cleanliness was no concern, how old fashioned the place felt was still a bit of a shock. The Sutton Arms is a large building and was virtually empty on this Tuesday night, but some of the old time pub clutter – tankards, useless brass nick nacks, and pictures of cats and so on – at least made it feel cosy. On busier nights the more atmospheric bistro area, with its photographs of great jazz musicians and antique curios, is no doubt utilised and has a better ambience.

Of course, old fashioned is often just what we're looking for in a nice, old village pub, even when going for pub grub. But it's clear the Sutton Arms is aiming for more than that. The prices are often higher than a typical pub for a start (although, post meal, I noticed some good deal offers on its Facebook site) but the menu was from another era. It was just endless, a bit like reading a bad exam question. And some of the meals on offer had that 1970s, Fanny Craddock, post-war trying-to-be-posh sensibility: 'trio of sardines' anyone?

On the other hand there's the 'gut buster' section which sounds more like a greasy spoon (one is soon disabused of that notion by the prices and, to be fair, by the quality of what is on offer).

We were courteously attended by owner himself and some of the meals sounded interesting: various shark, rabbit and duck meals are all offer and an extremely hungry diner can even order a 200oz rump steak (one day's noticed required) for £120.

So, a drink down and with a friendly host, our spirits were rising, our hopes raised. And our optimism was not misplaced.

For, ladies and gentlemen, the food was lovely.

My seafood pancake (£5.90) with a rich sauce was generously packed with mussels, prawns and squid. Mam's smoked salmon and prawn (£5.90) was also delicious and there was too much for her to eat.

I'd never tasted shark before and went for one with a Moroccan sauce (£12.95). The sauce was lovely but I almost wish I had just the simply prepared, delicious, meaty shark on its own. It was a revelation.

Mam had asked for her fillet mignon steak rare (£17.95 with a choice of sauces) and had to send it back when it arrived well done. There was an swift, heartfelt apology and no fuss. These things can happen anywhere. Anyway, it was worth the wait. Soft as butter.

Happily full I nevertheless had a strawberry mess, very like a Eton mess, for dessert. Again there was a lot of it and it was creamy and full of taste.

It was obvious that someone here can cook and, for all my mock-whinging at the price of the steak, you get what you pay for. This is quality food and, in truth, the prices were reasonable.

Mr Flegg has noble aims to restore the reputation of this well-known old pub and, having paid the price in the courts for the earlier problems, many will consider he deserves support. The food here is lovely but, in truth, the menu and surroundings feel like another era.

FOOD FACTS

The Sutton Arms

Darlington Road, Elton, Stockton, Cleveland TS21 1AH

Tel: 01642 582350

Web: suttonarms.weebly.com

Open for food: 12pm to 9.30pm Mon to Thurs; 12pm to 10pm Fri and Sat; and 12pm to 9pm on Sun

Disabled access

Ratings (out of 10): Surroundings 5, Service 8, Food, 9, Value for money 8