NOW for something completely different.

And The Labyrinth Holistic Cafe in Stockton, a not-for-profit, hippyish, half-cafe, half-book shop venture in the centre of Stockton is certainly that.

A slightly ramshackle interior with a simple, but ever-changing, menu it claims to be the town’s only vegan cafe that accommodates both those who are gluten free diners and meat lovers all at the same time.

Clearly, this venue somehow managers to tick all the alternative boxes while, happily, also serving beef burgers – but was the food any good? We’re happy to report that, yes, there is some good, simple freshly made food to bought at a more than reasonable price. But beware, this happy-hippy cafe is not for everyone.

More of that later but first we must return to the vexing subject of the ‘parmo.’ Usually found in late-night takeaways the rubbery chicken and bechamel sauce dish, Teesside’s own "delicacy", is in most cases to be avoided at all costs. And yet we were recently converted to the parmo cause by the delicious, light and tasty version made by superior chefs at The Masham in nearby Hartburn.

Not to be outdone The Labyrinth team, perhaps with an eye on gaining a publicity grabbing headline, came up with the offer of "the world’s first and only vegan parmo" for £5. A vegan option for a meal made out of meat and cheese is no small challenge and it had to be tried. Made from soya, beans and seasoning, it was a soft, comforting dish, filling with a delicate, slightly Mexican taste. A decent lunch

The vegan parmo wasn’t the only pleasant surprise at the Labyrinth cafe as we ate on comfy sofas among the spiritual books, crystals and candles for sale. Maybe in reaction to all the vegan and gluten-free talk I decided to try the homemade black and blue burger, made with Cajun spice and blue cheese (£5). It was tender and clearly just made right there and then in the kitchen. Vastly superior to any mass market burger chain it is served with a salad and diners are offered a range of home-made dressings.

My colleague and I shared a "desert" of American pancakes (£2.95). It is gluten free and is served with a delicious "butter", which had an intriguing coconut tang, and maple syrup. The pancakes were much lighter and nicer than any American one I had tasted before.

The bohemian feel must have been having an effect by now as I decided to try a herbal tea, Yerba Mate, which is made from tree bark but is packed with caffeine (£1.75). Sweetened with honey it was nice. My fellow journalist went for the more usual brew of his trade: a strong coffee, £1.50.

So the food, happily, more than passed the test and it was good not to be queuing up in yet another chain cafe but to be experiencing decent grub in an independent venue.

But, to be clear, the Labyrinth is clearly not for everyone. It has a relaxed, open door policy and there’s a big mix of different kinds of people. The dress code is not strict. It’s possible to imagine some people feeling slightly uncomfortable.

Still, there’s a good heart to the place. For example the staff, none of whom have so far taken a wage, collect for both an animal charity and a food bank. They also operate an innovative scheme where customers are encourage to donate a little extra as "one for the wall". The idea is for generous diners to pay for an extra coffee or a sandwich for young volunteers and regular customers who are short of cash. A note is left on the wall which can be cashed in, if the managers of the place consider it appropriate.

None of which makes for a regular lunchtime venue. Think bohemian. If you’re happy with that alternative vibe, man, this is the place for you.

After our meal we chat to the staff and one or two of the regular volunteers. There’s a young guy, no more than 20, who comes in to help out who is passionate about the food, a kindly lady who runs the book store and wants to talk about the contribution to the community. They are both passionate about this place in a genuine way “The food here is the only thing which can shut me up for a ten minutes,” laughs the young man, to general cheers. There’s a bit of banter around the place. It’s relaxed.

I’ve never been to anywhere like the Labyrinth cafe. Like most of us, I’ve tried slightly less authentic student cafes, even one run by Buddhist monks. But this is different, a bit strange... but nice. And the food is very good, even if the interior needs work with a clearer distinction between shop and cafe essential.

Worth a try, at least for a quick, cheap lunchtime bite.

The Labyrinth Holistic Cafe, Address: Skinner Street, Stockton, Tel: 01642 973771
Web: labyrinthholisticcafe.org
Disabled access
Opening Hours: 9am to 4.30pm(ish) Monday to Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Service, 9, Food, 8, Atmosphere, 7, Surroundings, 5.