The Saddle Room, Coverdale

There was that place in Durham – Mrs Mustard – based upon the obscure historical fact that a version of mustard was created in the city long before Messrs Coleman set up shop in Norwich. So the place was yellow, had lots of dishes with mustard in them etc, etc. The only problem was the food was execrable. Hot stuff it wasn’t. It was a surprise it lasted six months.

So hearing that a new restaurant established earlier this year near Middleham had an equine theme didn’t fill me with confidence. I’m not a big fan of gee-gees generally. Something to do with not being let off the leading rein as nervous eight-year old probably. Of course, I do feel rather differently when the nag is crossing the finishing line at 20-1 with my tenner on its back.

However, the equine theme at The Saddle Room in Coverdale is somewhat more justifiable and appropriate than the aforesaid mustard malarkey. This is, of course, horse country, Middleham being the racing capital of the North (sorry Malton, you just can’t hack it in comparison).

And the Saddle Room has been created in what was a stable block at Tupgill Park, better known to many as the Forbidden Corner –the extraordinary visitor attraction which is hard to describe – a garden-cum-folly-cum-theme park.

As themes go, the equestrian thing is not too obvious, leaving aside the toilets. Called Stallions and Mares (geddit!), the gents features a floor-to-ceiling mural of the most exceptionally well-endowed stallion. Just what a chap wants to see prior to relieving himself.

There’s another equestrian mural in part of the restaurant and the former stalls have been used to create dining booths but that’s about it. The rest of the conversion is a beautifully crafted exercise in atmospherically-lit smooth rusticity.

The four of us initially gathered round a massive wood-burning stove with menus before taking our places at a large sturdy table. We were looked after by Leo, who appeared to be the restaurant manager and also the wine enthusiast; he insisted on showing us the wine cellar which features a spectacular brick vaulted ceiling and actually forms part of the Forbidden Corner tour.

The kitchen is run by Tom Morrell, trumpeted loudly as a Masterchef TV series finalist, which does seem much of a claim to fame really. Hasn’t everybody who can boil an egg been on Masterchef by now?

But the man – and his brigade – can certainly cook.

Of the starters, David probably had the stand-out option of grilled fillet, smoked pate and Laphroig-cured mackerel with cucumber, mint and yoghurt salad (£6.50) – a light but complex flavour combination which he thought very refreshing. Sylvia enjoyed her plump and juicy glazed tiger prawns on toast (£8), Elizabeth thought her mussels, clams and saffron risotto (£7.50) good if a tad stodgy and I liked the deeply rich creaminess of my garlic mushrooms, also on toast (£6.50).

If anything, main courses took things up another gear. David and Elizabeth were delighted with their choices of whole plaice with the classic accompaniments of brown shrimps, capers and new potatoes (£18.50) – the capers providing the perfect salty counterpoint to the richness of the shrimp and butter sauce.

Sylvia struggled to think of a rib-eye steak (£23) that could match hers, perfectly cooked medium and joined on the plate with some chunky twice-cooked chips and plum tomato.

My game pie (£15) was a rich and deeply flavoured amalgam of chunky, tender meat and an almost earthy sauce, topped with a light shortcrust pastry crust.

David finished his meal with an attractively presented (in a muslin parcel) spotted dick (£6). He thought it could have been a little lighter but the crème anglaise received full marks.

My rum cheesecake custard espuma with caramelised banana and raisins (£6.50) was novel – the traditional biscuit base was replaced by a biscuit crumb coating of the smoothly creamy cheesecake and the banana and raisins introduced a lovely textural contrast.

Service was leisurely but never lax and the enthusiasm of Leo was always to the fore, especially when talking about wine. Although we did not seek his advice, our choice of a fruity Argentinian Torrentes (£23.90) was a good one.

Leo was also enthusiastic about dripping which was offered as an alternative (a scrummy one David and I thought, the ladies were less keen) to butter with the fresh bread offered at the beginning of the meal.

The wine, coffee and some pre-dinner drinks contributed to a £156.90 bill. Reasonable value we thought although I considered it odd that my game pie came with greens but no potatoes and that the plaice dishes came with potatoes but no greens, both of which were available as £3 side dishes.

The Saddle Room

Tupgill Park Estate, Coverham, Middleham, Leyburn, DL8 4TJ

Tel: 01969-640596. Web: thesaddleroom.co.uk

Food served 12-9pm, Mon-Thurs and noon- 9.30 pm Fri, Sat. Sun noon-5pm.

Vegetarians catered for. Disabled access

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 9 Service 9 Surroundings 8 Value 7