“ERRRM, medium... please,” I said, timidly.

That was as brave as I was prepared to be.

For a farmer’s son brought up on well-and-truly-roasted roast beef and vegetables boiled “until all the bad bits are out”, The Town House’s suggestion that its early bird menu Bavette steak was best served medium rare was, to be frank, slightly scary.

It took me several years even to progress from well done to medium well. Medium was really pushing the boat out.

I need not have worried. My chosen main course was nicely deep pink through with a hint of brown toward the edges. It was a huge relief – and a personal confidence builder – to learn that not all restaurants consider medium to be a variation on “still mooing”.

More importantly, the meat was excellent. Apparently a cheaper cut of beef popular in France – a Gourmet Britain description that reminded me of Dr Johnson’s famous reference to oats as a grain which “in England is generally given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people” – the Bavette was far from the off-cuts in terms of quality; rather, I would dare to suggest, the best steak I have ever tasted.

The Town House in all its guises has had a colourful recent history. I first became aware of the Old Elvet premises when it opened a few years back as the eccentric, if not bizarre, Fallen Angel Hotel, which had unique rooms on themes such as Doctor Who, Cruella de Vil and a French boudoir.

A while later, it was purchased by the Gadd family, who had also run the Seven Stars Inn and Pump House Restaurant, both fine eateries in Shincliffe, and Thai restaurant Zen, and turned into the five-star Gadds Town House.

It was under this name that the venue became known as the best steakhouse in Durham.

But the Gadds decided to sell last autumn after their daughter, who had been lined up to run and own the hotel, decided instead to become a full-time mum. Annual turnover topped £750,000, hence the leasehold asking price of £260,000.

The buyers, we discovered after our first visit on a balmy midweek evening in early September, were Paul Pringle and Mark Wrightson, who already owned Newcastle’s Alvino’s cocktail bar and Intermezzo coffee shop and were keen to expand their trade into Durham.

Whether they met the Gadds’ offer, I don’t know.

But they took over in February, have invested in improving the venue – including upgrading some of the rooms, are looking to host more weddings and functions and, most perhaps most significantly, introduced an early bird menu.

Although I never made it to Gadds, I knew it to be a steakhouse where you paid top dollar and got top quality.

As I’ve suggested, the quality remains. And you can still, if you’ll forgive the pun, fork out – a 16oz Chateaubriand “off the bone” steak will set you back £50 before you add sauces or sides.

But with two courses available for £12 and three for £15 between noon and 2.30pm Monday to Saturday and 5pm and 7pm Monday to Thursday, a trip to The Town House is now within the budget of a much wider audience.

The cosy, L-shaped restaurant is reached via the hotel lobby, passing the public bar on your left.

The main area, where we were seated, looks out over the rear garden down to the Wear – quite wonderful for a sundown such as we enjoyed. The decor is rich, deep and luxurious.

However, I would advise more soundproofing of the kitchen – my back was to the waiting staff’s food collection point and I overheard rather too much conversation for my liking.

Early eaters by preference, my wife and I were seated by 6.30pm and gladly accepted the offer to order before 7pm and take advantage of the set menu – Sarah going for two courses, I three.

To begin, Sarah chose the fishcakes, described as homemade patties with hot smoked salmon, smoked haddock and chives served with homemade tartare sauce. She was very impressed.

I, to my wife’s surprise, went for the duck liver pate, which was superb – the sherry finish shining through as a special treat.

While I enjoyed my steak, Sarah went vegetarian (there is one non-meat option each of the set menus starters and mains sections) with a halloumi tartlet, which again she was most pleased with.

To finish, I resisted my old favourite, sticky toffee pudding, in favour of the lighter lime cheesecake, which was excellent – zesty and refreshing, without being too sharp.

Drinks were expensive – it would be quite easy to spend as much on drinks as food – but well worth it: my large glass of Chilean Pinot Noir surely being one of Durham’s best ways to rid yourself of £7.50.

There is a good range of food (whether or not you’re a steak lover) ranging from £9.50 for tagine up to the aforementioned Chateaubriand and wine too, with five whites, five reds and two roses available by the 175ml and 250ml glass.

All in all, it was an excellent experience all round. I’m sure it won’t be our last. After all, with Mr Pringle, once you pop, you can’t stop!

The Town House

34 Old Elvet, Durham, DH1 3HN

Tel: 0191-384-1037

Web: thetownhousedurham.co.uk

Email: info@thetownhousedurham.co.uk

Food served: Breakfast 7.30am to 10am Monday to Friday, 8am to 10am at weekends; set menu available noon to 2.30pm Monday to Saturday, 5pm to 7pm Monday to Thursday; main menu available noon until late; Sunday lunch menu noon to 3pm.

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 10 Service 7 Surroundings 9 Value 10