THERE’S been much speculation over the past year about the opening of a new Italian restaurant proposed for the former Beaconsfield Hotel in Barnard Castle.

Initial indications were that Il Palazzo would open late 2013 in time to catch the Christmas trade, but Christmas came and went, along with the New Year, yet the doors remained firmly closed.

Despite notices appearing on the exterior advertising for staff, opening dates were constantly put back, and bemused residents wondered if it would ever happen.

Well finally it has, and boy was it worth waiting for. Having failed to secure a weekend table for the foreseeable future we opted for a Wednesday evening. Expecting it to be quiet midweek, we were surprised to find most of the 110 covers reserved. There was a lively mix too – families, couples young and old, and small groups, all giving a real buzz to the place. The Beaconsfield was certainly never like this!

The restaurant is owned by Kamal Alley, who, after carrying out some careful market research as to location viability, has spent a six figure sum on transforming the tired old building. Mr Alley is also the owner of a successful branch in Richmond.

Maître d is Michael Saddington, an Englishman and fluent Italian speaker, having spent 17 years working in the country.

From the outside nothing much has changed re the fabric of the building, apart from the addition of a disabled ramp. Two hideous stone lions guard the entrance steps, but at least they’re a good landmark.

Step inside though and all is tasteful. The former lounge and bar areas have morphed into a large and airy dining room leading through to a conservatory and patio area. Mirrors, internal windows and glass all add to the impression of light.

We were shown to a table just inside the conservatory, but it was next to a pillar, the seats projecting either side. Envisaging waiters brushing past all night we asked to be seated elsewhere, a request immediately granted with a smile. Once seated, the table was ours for the night.

The service was excellent, wine and food menus appearing on cue. As we’d chosen fish and meat for both starters and mains, we plumped (or thought we had!) for a bottle of Pinot Grigio blush; as neither of us was driving it worked out about the same as having a couple of glasses of wine apiece. To be fair we were shown the bottle, which read Pinot Grigio, but when poured it was white rather than blush. However, we sipped it, found it more than acceptable, and decided to keep it, but got the impression that it would have been swiftly exchanged had we wished it.

I began with calf’s liver with onion and pancetta, while Peter went for an Italian fishcake with smoked haddock and salmon and a spinach and tartare sauce. Both were extremely well cooked and beautifully presented, as you would expect from the kitchen of head chef Luca Galluca, tempted away from the prestigious Rockcliffe Hall Hotel. The liver was beautifully tender, and the fishcake crisp in all the right places.

For mains I went for what turned out to be one of the best seafood pasta dishes – king scallops, mussels, clams and tiger prawns - I’ve ever eaten. Peter meanwhile devoured a thyme infused venison steak with roasted potatoes and merlot sauce, accompanied by a side dish of roasted root vegetables. Although a dish for the seafood shells was provided I had to ask for a finger bowl, which while swiftly delivered should have been a given rather than an afterthought in such an upmarket establishment.

With quality over quantity the watchword here, we found room for dessert. I had a palate cleaning, deliciously tangy lemon and limoncello parfait, while Peter had a rather wobbly pannacotta which came with a choice of amaretto or cassis sauce. He plumped for the former and wasn’t disappointed.

Replete, we sat back and reflected on what had been a lovely experience overall, in excellent surroundings, with friendly and attentive service. At £83.25 for two, including drinks, it wasn’t cheap, but you get what you pay for.

Finally, we ought to mention the disabled loo, which has a door wide enough for the largest wheelchair to pass through and to comfortably do a three point turn once inside.

Il Palazzo
Galgate, Barnard Castle, DL12 8ES
Tel: 01833 638870. No website yet.
Opening hours: Daily from noon-3pm & 5-10pm.
Wheelchair friendly.

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 9, Service 9, Surroundings 9, Value for money 8