The Fox Hall Inn

  • East Layton, Richmond DL11 7PW.
  • Tel: 01325 718262.
  • www.foxhallinn.net
  • Open for food: Monday to Saturday: 11.30am-9pm; Sunday - 12pm - 8pm serving food, bar open until late. Tuesday: closed.
  • Disabled access
  • Vegetarian options

HAVING heard nothing but good things about the Fox Hall Inn since its purchase by the Barker family, we were delighted to be asked to review it, the editor having previously called on spec only to find no room at the inn.

It was a similar story on the evening we dined, but, with the editor’s warning ringing in our ears, we’d had the foresight to book. Just as well because when we arrived around 7.30pm we were hard put to find a parking spot.

Situated beside the busy A66 cross Pennine route, the 350-year-old inn describes itself as country pub and fish and chip restaurant but is particularly renowned for the quality of the latter. This is purely down to the reputation of Steve and Jenny Barker, who since opening in March 2013 have already won The National Federation of Fish Fryers’ Fish and Chip Quality Award.

Motorists may recall it as the inn whose exterior was previously painted a garish yellow, but we’re pleased to report that one of Steve and Jenny’s first jobs was to repaint it white.

Steve, originally a butcher, and Jenny, a former nurse, ran a delicatessen when first married before opening their first fish and chip shop in Norton. Residents of Hutton Magna, they later opened two more shops in the Richmond area, which they sold in 2006 along with the Barker name, to run a caravan park in Brompton-on-Swale.

However, living near the Fox Hall, the couple drove past often, and when it came up for sale couldn’t resist the challenge. They’ve upgraded the building, adding a large conservatory restaurant, with views over the rolling countryside, and converting a former pool room into a dining area.

The bar where we perused the menu and specials board is a large, welcoming, dog friendly area, with a log burning stove, comfy chesterfield sofa and excellent double glazing, effectively blocking traffic noise. It’s managed by Peter Collins, whom Jenny told us is very particular about his beer.

This was borne out by my husband Peter while enjoying a pint of Timothy Taylor’s Landlord ale as I savoured an extremely palatable glass of Shiraz.

Although the house speciality is fish and chips – the cod in small, standard and large sizes, the haddock standard and large – we had already heard so many good reviews about those that we went off piste, knowing that the Barkers have recently taken on chefs Adrian and Gill Barrett, equally renowned in the catering trade. Having first discovered them at the Hack & Spade at Whashton, we followed them to the Arden Arms, the Bowes Museum, and latterly Overton House at Reeth, and were delighted to find them at the Fox Hall.

We began with a seafood sharing platter. Beautifully presented, at £12.95 we at first thought it a tad overpriced, but on investigation there was more to it than met the eye. On a bed of mixed salad sat smoked salmon pate, tempura prawns, crispy fish cakes, prawn cocktail, and Peter’s favourite – marinated herring.

I stuck with fish for mains, while Peter opted for pot roast chicken with smoked bacon and leeks on a bed of perfect mash, the only drawback being the overcooked bacon, but he didn’t leave any! My linguine pasta came with king prawns, perfectly cooked queen scallops, and mussels in a white wine and garlic sauce. It was faultless; my only quibble was in having to request a dish for the mussel shells and a finger bowl, which were quickly supplied. Otherwise, service was impeccable.

After a decent interval we were tempted by Gill’s award winning puddings – Peter loved his apple and cinnamon crumble while I plumped for a scrumptious summer berry pavlova.

One thing to note is that the low ceilinged conservatory extension means that when full, as on this occasion, the room can get overpoweringly hot. This was solved by Jenny offering us a recently vacated table next to an open window, which prevented me wilting.

We ended the evening where we’d begun, in the bar, this time with coffee and mints, and reflected that the £58.48 bill for three quality courses including drinks was good value. And if you just want fish and chips, a burger or a sandwich and a pint – they served a record 553 such meals on Good Friday alone – these are on offer at extremely affordable prices. The inn is wheelchair friendly.

Ratings (out of ten):

Food quality: 9
Service: 8
Surroundings: 8
Value for money: 8