IF I was mayor of Middlesbrough and trying to woo some big-time investors into parting with millions, this is where I would bring them – and let the view at sunset do the talking.

Fifteen years ago Middlehaven dock was a derelict post-industrial wasteland.

Its revamp has had a checkered history but since then £100m has been poured in, including the resiting of Middlesbrough College, the Community in a Cube apartment block and The Gateway, a groundbreaking neurological rehabilitation centre.

Gazing out of the restaurant over the Tees there are two landmarks that stand out.

Both are pretty spectacular and both define a town that has always punched above its weight.

The Transporter Bridge is the second largest of its kind in the world and the Temenos art sculpture is by acclaimed sculptor Anish Kapoor, famed for Cloud Gate in Chicago.

It may have drawn a range of comparisons from a windsock to a femidom but, due to the credit crunch, Temenos was the only one out of five planned artworks to be known as the Tees Valley Giants that has ever been built.

It’s easy to be dismissive when only catching a glimpse while whizzing past on the A66 – yet from the sedentary comfort of our table it really is impressive.

So it is fitting that an aspirational eaterie opened at Middlehaven last year. On its website it says: “Brasserie Hudson Quay has been designed to recall the grand European cafes of France, Spain and Italy, providing a unique dining experience in a luxurious setting.

“The style and ambience is distinctly European, providing an experience normally reserved for capital cities.”

With the unique skyline, gorgeous food and flawless service our meal – although not cheap – was one of the best dining experiences we have ever had.

When my husband, Matthew, and I arrived at 7pm on a Saturday evening there were only two other tables occupied but by the time we left an hour and a half later it was very busy and filled with that intangible hubbub that can only be described as a great atmosphere.

It struck us that people had really dressed for the occasion and that it attracted an older clientele, with most diners aged 35 plus. It was sophisticated without being stuffy or over-familiar.

To start I had pulled ham, honey and thyme rillette, pineapple, pickled quails’ eggs and white truffle (£7.50) while Matthew chose beetroot-cured salmon, dill pickled vegetable, horseradish and Parma ham (£8).

The descriptions are long but the portion sizes were small but perfectly presented and delicious.

Then I opted for local Yorkshire lamb rump, spiced shoulder, tzatziki, blushed tomato and almond (£18.50) which was comfortingly different.

I enjoyed tucking into the warm, pink meat with its cold Mediterranean accompaniments – a sort of Sunday lunch with a holiday twist and a dish I will try to emulate at home.

A take on ‘surf and turf’ caught Matthew’s eye – poached pork fillet, charred leek, Morteau sausage and North Sea shellfish.

“Absolutely superb. They were combinations I would never have thought would go together but really worked,” he said.

I was too full for a pudding but couldn’t resist the urge to help Matthew out with his divine chocolate mousse, peanut butter and granola – a bit like a decadent grown-up breakfast cereal.

What with the surprising menu combinations and artistic presentation, dinner at Brasserie Hudson Quay was fun, not just because of the food we ordered but also the complementary morsels we didn’t, such as the bread and olives when we sat down and the cappuccino cups filled with vichyssoise served between courses.

Including a large bottle of sparkling water and two pints of Kronenbourg, the bill came to £69.90, which would put us off calling it our regular but, for a special treat and the chance to take in that view again, it definitely gets our vote.

Brasserie Hudson Way

Winward Way, Middlesbrough, TS2 1QG
Tel: 01642-261166
Website: www.brasseriehudsonquay.com
Open: Breakfast menu Monday – Sunday 9am to 11.45am, a la carte lunch Monday – Saturday 12pm to 2.45pm, a la carte dinner
Monday - Sunday 5pm to 10.30pm, lounge menu Monday – Saturday 12pm to 5pm, Sunday lunch 12pm to 5pm
Disabled access
Vegetarian options

Ratings (out of ten):

Food quality: 10
Service: 9
Surroundings: 10
Value: 8