IT says much of what the uninitiated would need to know about Bistro 21 that when we told friends of our plans for a cold, wet Wednesday in mid-February, a quiet, unspoken envy would cloud their eyes.

It is without question one of Durham’s most acclaimed and sought-after destinations.

This was our first visit. We were aware of the spin, but had never ventured in. In short, we were impressed.

Bistro 21 is part of the group owned by chef, restaurateur and food entrepreneur Terry Laybourne which also includes Newcastle’s Café 21, Caffe Vivo, Café 21 at Fenwick and The Broad Chare.

It is situated in Aykley Heads – indeed it occupies Aykley Heads House – near Durham’s Register Office and police headquarters.

It has a luxuriously rustic feel, like a tastefully reappointed country farmhouse. Guests enter by descending a few tumbledown garden steps and through a spacious hall, passing an attractive terraced dining area to the left and a snug, amply stocked bar to the right.

We were greeted warmly and, having opted to skip pre-dinner drinks and head straight for our table, shown through to the square-ish dining room.

Again, the surroundings are deliberately raw, with wooden chairs attached high up on the walls.

Our table, as it always seem to be regardless of where my wife and I venture, was hidden away in the corner – on this occasion underneath a staircase, giving us a semiprivate feel.

It was early, but there were plenty of diners already in – and the place filled up further as the night went on.

Refreshingly, given the time of year, Valentine’s Day decorations were entirely absent – not a cheap pink heartshaped balloon in sight.

We had booked for 7pm, but were graciously offered the Early Evening Special – two courses for £15.50 or three for £19, available Monday to Saturday, 5.30pm to 7pm.

For those looking for a (slightly) cheaper option, it would certainly do the job – the range is good and one could undoubtedly be assured of the quality.

Sarah began with the gruyere cheese and leek souffle (£7.50, but also on the Early Evening Special menu), which arrived piping hot and looked and tasted wonderful. It may even have been the highlight of her meal. She would highly recommend it and I would too, having warmly accepted the offer of a cheeky mouthful.

I was also delighted at my choice – fragrant Asian mussel and prawn broth (£7.50).

I am growing to love seafood more and more and, despite having been traumatised by the experience of eating raw mussels as a delicacy in New Zealand some five years ago, this dish clinched the clam’s long-awaited return to my most wanted list. An excellent starter.

For mains, Sarah chose haddock with leeks, potatoes, soft poached egg and light curry cream (£16.50). Sadly, this was the one disappointment of her meal – the haddock being too strongly smoked.

But we both felt this may have been a matter of individual taste, rather than the dish’s objective quality.

I surprised myself somewhat by plumping for fishcakes, served with buttered spinach, parsley cream and thin chips (£16.50).

I say surprised because I probably hadn’t eaten fishcakes since my school days.

But thankfully these were a far cry from the soggy, lifeless offerings of years ago – these were moist, crisp and fresh.

Top of the class.

After a while to enjoy our surroundings, chew over the day’s events and more fully appreciate the Tempranillo (£6.90 for a 250ml glass), our thoughts turned to the dessert menu (£5.50 each).

Sarah was in chocolate heaven with her warm chocolate and peanut butter pudding, which was a most delicious torte-like creation, while I returned to safe ground by opting for the sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce, which was just as it should be, neither stodgy nor fluffy, and properly warm. Declining coffees and thoroughly satisfied, we headed for home.

Overall, Bistro 21 fulfilled our expectations in terms of quality and our fears of overly pretentious cooking, odd flavours and tiny portions were illfounded.

Chef Rauri McKay offers good, solid food with intriguing innovation.

The service was friendly and attentive, although surprisingly informal – we can only assume deliberately so.

With all main courses priced £16.50, Bistro 21 is not a cheap night out. But, for a special occasion or a treat, it is a good one.

Bistro 21

Aykley Heads House,
Aykley Heads,
Durham
DH1 5TS

Telephone: 0191-384-4354
Website: www.bistrotwentyone.co.uk
Open: Monday to Saturday, noon to 2pm, 5.30pm to 10pm. Sunday noon to 3.30pm

Ratings (out of ten):

Food quality: 8
Service: 8
Surroundings: 8
Value: 7