Haynes Arms, Kirby Sigston, Northallerton

But it is one of the common threads running through the story of the McCoy brothers, whose contribution to food culture in this part of the world is probably without parallel.

As all four are still very much alive and licking, describing them as legendary is a bit over the top but many wouldn’t argue with that term.

From the Kirklevington Country Club, to the Cleveland Tontine, the Golden Lion at Osmotherley and, most recently, the Crathorne Arms, their most successful ventures have always been based on or very near that road.

It has only been when they have strayed away – to Northallerton, Darlington, or Gateshead, for example – that they have come unstuck.

And now there’s the Haynes Arms at Kirby Sigston, which is as close to the A19 as you can get without being a cat’s eye.

Peter McCoy bought it at the back end of 2012 and brother Tom is helping in the kitchen.

Also on board is the frontof- house leader Belal who started his career in the hospitality industry at the Haynes 21 years ago.

Darren behind the bar is a veteran of some 13 years.

There’s no shortage of experience.

It’s not that long since we “did” the Haynes Arms in this column. It was in what turned out to be the dog days of Helen Cousins’ tenure. Mrs Cousins had run the roadside hostelry for many years with her husband Tom, latterly on her own after his passing.

Then we thought the food was OK but the interior was looking decidedly tired – a long, thin space separated into restaurant, bar and bar lounge – with the restaurant looking rather out on a limb.

The McCoys’ makeover has been fairly restrained. In many ways, it is not that different from the old Haynes Arms.

The changes, although largely cosmetic and we suspect part of an ongoing process, have given the place a cleaner, simpler look, with fewer knick knacks on display, to be replaced with fresh flowers and hanging greenery. The original, handsome bar and the enormous stone fireplaces (filled with roaring, toasty, coal and wood fires) are, quite rightly, now the central features. The seating is a mix of banquette and traditional tables and chairs.

Our visit was on a Sunday, so apologies to the reader who took us to task for reviewing Sabbath lunches on the grounds they tend to be a bit samey and anyone can cook a half-decent roast, Yorkshire pudding and veg.

Well, that’s a good point – most Sunday lunch menus do look the same but, frankly, are no guide to what can be put in front of you. Roasting meat isn’t the greatest test of a chef/cook but again there is plenty of opportunity to get it horribly wrong.

And we also know that Sunday lunch is still the most popular time to eat out and people want to know what’s available. So we’ll keep doing ‘em.

Although the Haynes Arms’ Sunday main courses were what anyone might expect, the starters did offer something a little different.

Alongside prawn cocktail and chicken liver and brandy terrine, there was red lentil and pepper soup, white crab with a brown crab mayonnaise topped with a celeriac remoulade, two vegetarian options (roasted tomato stuffed with spinach, feta and parmesan, and roasted red pepper stuffed with fennel, tomato and pesto). There was also a fish special – grilled mackerel with ginger Thai dressing.

Sylvia had the soup – some texture from the lentils, clean, sweet spiciness from peppers – and enjoyed the fresh bread and butter that came with it.

I picked the mackerel (fresh that weekend from the everreliable Hodgsons of Hartlepool) and the Thai dressing worked a treat, the warming, zesty ginger nicely pimping up the earthiness of the fillet of fish.

Our roasts with all the trimmings were as good as anyone might expect. The Mc- Coys get their meat locally (from Cockburns of Bedale and Thompsons of Northallerton among others) and both Sylvia’s lamb (leg) and my pork (loin) were perfectly cooked and well flavoured.

The Yorkshires were of the light and fluffy variety, the roast potatoes well browned, crispy and floury within and the other vegetables (carrots, parsnips and cabbage) equally good.

Both gravies were appropriate for the meat – the same for the stuffing. My pork crackling was just about perfect – crisply crunchy but not molar threatening.

From a lengthy dessert list, Sylvia (who, of course, never does puddings) had a hefty but light and slightly tart raspberry ripple cheesecake with raspberry coulis.

Somewhat overwhelmed by the choice, I sought advice from our waitress who, without a moment’s hesitation, proffered sherry trifle, which turned out not to be on that lengthy menu but a special.

I didn’t regret my indecision.

It was a proper grown-up trifle – boozy and made with sponge and good custard.

The tart raspberry coulis suited me but those with a sweeter tooth might have found it a bit too sharp.

Service was top drawer. We felt this was a happy team at work, the pace leisurely but perfectly acceptable for a Sunday.

Pricing for the Sunday lunch market is a little steep. Main courses are between £10.95 and £12.95 (kids £6.96), starters between £5.25 and £8.95, and desserts £5.95.

But we felt the total of £56.95, which included a £10 bar bill, was one of those occasions when the expression “getting what you pay for” was entirely justified.

Ratings (out of ten):

Food quality 9
Service 10
Surroundings 8
Value 8

McCoy’s Haynes Arms
Kirby Sigston, Northallerton DL6 3TD
Telephone: 01609-883383
Website: thehaynesarms.com
Open for food: noon-2pm and 6pm until late, Monday to Sunday
Plenty of vegetarian options.
Disabled access