WE start with an apology. Eight years ago, when we last visited Richmond’s Frenchgate Hotel, we made not one, but two, references to laminate flooring.

They were, in fact, the real thing, original floorboards lovingly restored. Hotel owner David Todd was not happy, although I only heard about his displeasure third hand. We thought about running a correction but an earnest paragraph about the precise composition of the materials underfoot would have seemed a bit lame and perhaps ended up in Pseuds Corner of Private Eye.

But, in the interests of post- Leveson Press transparency and humility, we thought it about time we came clean and put the record straight.

That March 2005 review taught me something else.

You have to give a place a bit of time to settle before running the rule over it.

Back then, the hotel had just been refurbished. We had been encouraged to do so by Mr Todd’s intention to secure a Michelin star.

It turned out the hotel wasn’t finished. The skip was still outside the front window as we ate and there were lots of other things that were not quite right. The food, though, was brilliant.

Eight years on and the Michelin star still eludes Mr Todd. But the Frenchgate Hotel has picked up lots of other baubles and rosettes, along with a reputation for fine dining in a town that doesn’t really do fine dining.

Our return visit had a promising start. The lounge which in 2005 we had described as having the ambience of a doctor’s waiting room, was packed with comfy loungers, occasional tables and Regency chairs and colourful abstract art packed the walls.

It would have been perfect had the handsome woodburning stove been lit. The sweep’s arrival was awaited, we were told.

In the restaurant, we were a little perturbed, given it was Friday night, to find ourselves the only diners, bar one gentleman who was just leaving, which turned the evening into a private dining experience.

It is a beautiful dining room, romantically lit, with a classical Adam fireplace, more colourful artworks, solid oak furniture, classy tableware and, yes, a stripped wood floor (Sylvia can vouch for that. Her heel disappeared through a hole in one of the original boards).

We sat at the same table which gave us the views of Frenchgate and the skip eight years previously. The skip, of course, had gone. In its place was a Transit belong to Bonnie Bins – “Have your wheelie bin cleaned, lined and deodorised regularly!”

Now Frenchgate is a public highway and there’s nothing the hotel can do to stop Bonnie Bins or anyone else parking outside and that is a shame given it is possibly one of the most beautiful Georgian streets in England.

But we were there primarily for the food, not the view, and it bears serious attention.

Maybe it is not Michelin star standard but it can’t be far away.

We ate from the £34 for three courses set menu and everything we ate was beautifully presented while not being overly fussy.

The standout dishes were Sylvia’s roast and confit lamb served with an escabeche of vegetables, white onion puree and goat’s curd. Once Sylvia had come to terms with the absence of any form of potato, she loved the meltingly pink tenderness of the roasted meat (the confit was OK but how do you improve on the essence of roasted lamb?) and the feta-like goat’s curd.

My starter of hay-smoked mackerel served with an anchovy relish and lemon salad was exactly what a starter should be – a zesty, tastebud-teasing, appetite-stimulating plateful of freshness.

Other noteworthy elements were the nutty violet potato and brambles which accompanied my Holme Farm (from Sherburn-in-Elmet, near Leeds) venison with spicy-sweet red cabbage and salsify braised in red wine – a real taste of autumn.

Sylvia also enjoyed the crispy pork and black pudding terrine which accompanied a seared scallop and artichoke puree which formed her starter.

She was delighted by her apple tart with custard ice cream and dinky little perfect toffee apple.

My pistachio and olive cake with olive puree and banana mousse as a menu description seemed a bit of a challenge.

On the plate it was a triumph, the savouriness of the olive elements just teasing with the moist sweetness of the cake. The banana mousse was the essence of smooth, sweet stickiness.

There was also a theatrical amuse bouche – slices of smoked salmon served in Kilner jars from which woodsmoke poured forth as the tops were opened.

The intense smokiness of the fish was undeniable, as was also the practical difficulty of cutting up the salmon in the jar. One could hoick it out in one piece with the fork provided and trough it down in one but such inelegance would have been out of kilter with the surroundings.

Given that staff outnumbered us, it was perhaps not surprising that service was professional and attentive, led by the most accomplished maitred’ Kali.

Our bill of £85 was inflated by a very expensive (£7.75) but exquisite small glass of minerally Sauvignon blanc, a gin and tonic (£5.70), and a bottle of still mineral water (£3.95).

Frenchgate Hotel

59-61 Frenchgate, Richmond DL10 7AE
Telephone: 01748-822087
Website: www.thefrenchgate.co.uk
Dinner served: 6-9.30pm, seven days
Limited vegetarian options.
Disabled access.