WHEN Stephen Hardy, head chef at The Gourmet Spot – widely recognised as one of the region’s finest eating destinations – learned I had visited for the purposes of these pages, he admitted to “a little bit of nervousness”.

Apparently I have developed a reputation as being somewhat hard to please. Certainly a recent correspondent who disagreed with a previous piece argued so.

Well, I can put Mr Hardy’s mind at rest. My evening at his restaurant was superb.

The Gourmet Spot is located reasonably central to Durham City but somehow still manages to be hidden away, on The Avenue, almost as if it’s operated on a ‘need to know’ basis.

My wife and I pulled into the car park (we were perhaps the only non-BMW-driving guests) on a still-sunny Wednesday evening and our first impressions were good.

We were given a warm welcome by our young hostess and, having resisted the offer of a pre-dinner drink, invited into the dining area.

The Gourmet Spot is an exclusively small restaurant, with only eight or so tables.

Our waitress appeared to be the only one working that night.

But that was no problem, as there was only one other dining party. In fact, she was excellent throughout the evening – polite without being standoffish and taking great care to explain in detail each of the many dishes she would bring our way over the following couple of hours.

I say ‘many’ because although I ordered three courses and Sarah limited herself to two, numerous unexpected but intriguing additions emerged.

We were invited to begin with canapés: chicken scratching with mushroom and celery, truffle and goats’ cheese macaroons and chive popcorn, all of which were very pleasant.

A selection of breads followed: black pudding loaf, walnut and raisin buns and black treacle and oat buns.

Third, the pre-starter: potato veloute with caviar.

It was my first experience of the sought-after fish egg delicacy.

To be honest, it wasn’t to my taste. But this undoubtedly had more to do with me than the quality of the offering.

For starter (rarely has this description been less appropriate), I chose the Hanger Steak: Carpaccio with Jersey milk curd, radishes and carrots.

A departure from my usual fare, it was most enjoyable.

It was finally Sarah’s turn to tuck in when the main courses arrived. Her Pork Two Ways (confit belly and tenderloin, with onions, red cabbage gel, pickled mustard and Granny Smith) she enjoyed greatly.

I was equally pleased with my duck breast (poached and roasted, with new season’s turnips, crispy kale, girolles and elderflower).

The additions continued with a pre-dessert: elderflower granite, with natural yoghurt and Granny Smith apple. It was an excellent choice: cleansing the palate in preparation for dessert.

To finish, my wife chose the Aero – aerated chocolate, with salted caramel and popcorn. I dare say it was the highlight of her evening, barring my thrilling conversation, of course.

I enjoyed my Peanut Butter and Jelly – peanut butter parfait, with blackberry jelly and doughnut, although I was slightly regretful I had not instead chosen the Strawberry – cheesecake with basil ice cream, strawberries and pepper.

The wines were listed under broad descriptions: crisp and fruity, smooth and dry, full flavoured and rich and full-bodied, to list a few – quite the help for the uninitiated.

I particularly enjoyed the Caracter Shiraz.

Farnley Towers, the home of The Gourmet Spot, is a wonderful pile: charming in its individuality and eccentricity.

So much so that I’m quite prepared to overlook having had to go searching the upstairs for the gents’ toilet.

Although I could have done without the climactic art piece on the stairs which, without going into detail, would justify the usual nickname abbreviation of the venue’s title.

The Gourmet Spot’s decor is dark and rich, relaxing and calming. The background music is contemporary and quirky, played at an attractive volume.

A 12.5 per cent service charge is optional, payable with the bill. Our waitress quite deserved it. Realistically, with a bill approaching £100, I can imagine few circumstances under which I would personally return to The Gourmet Spot for a fullprice evening meal.

But the Market Menu, with two courses for £20 and three for £25, is more tempting. That’s available Tuesday to Friday, on orders between 5.30pm and 7pm.

And during the same hours Tuesday to Thursday, students can get two meals for £16, or three for £20 – with a free glass of wine thrown in for good measure.

Money aside, it was an outstanding dining experience.

The Gourmet Spot
Farnley Tower, The Avenue, Durham
Telephone: 0191-384-6655
Website: www.gourmet-spot,co.uk
Open: Tuesday to Saturday, 5.30pm to 9pm