IT has taken a long time to get to Whinstone View Bistro but it has not been for the want of trying.

Trouble is, I’m not quite sure if the problem is that it is so popular you can’t get a table or that getting through the switchboard /reception/automated messaging system is so unintuitive that people just give up. We’ve had experience of both.

On the first attempt, we rang on a Sunday morning (OK, I’ll admit it was quite late on a Sunday morning – 11.55am actually) to reserve a table and found they were fully booked.

The silver lining to that disappointment was that in flailing around the web looking for an alternative we came across The Horseshoe Inn at West Rounton, which has turned out to be the find of the year so far.

On the second occasion, I rang on Saturday morning.

There was a recorded message which gave two options – being put through to the spa or reception. I opted for reception but no response. I did that six times on Saturday morning and a similar number in the afternoon, on the last occasion managing to leave a message.

No response.

On Sunday morning I tried again and on the third, maybe fourth time, probably at the point where I was about to give up, managed to get through to a real, live human being who was sweetness itself. Yes, they did have a table but it would have to be upstairs. Something in the tone of her voice suggested this might not be desirable.

Upstairs, downstairs... I just said yes with the desperate gratitude of a man who had completed a lone journey across the Sahara with no liquid sustenance being offered a choice of still or sparkling water at the oasis.

So after this quest of Homeric proportions, we found ourselves pulling up at the Whinstone View Bistro, Spa and Lodges (to give its full name) just north of Great Ayton on the road to Middlesbrough – to realise we had been here before, albeit a long time ago, when judging the Flavours of Hambleton awards.

It was nominated and shortlisted in the restaurant category and, if memory serves right, just missed out to Chapters in Stokesley.

The bistro is in a pleasant rural setting, surrounded by parkland and discreetly hidden lodges.

While the building itself is nothing special, the entrance is approached via a large vine-covered terrace set with tables, chairs and sofas. When the weather’s right it must be lovely.

Inside we were told if we wished, and were able to finish our meal by 2pm, we could eat downstairs. We said yes so never found out what awaited us “upstairs”.

Is it the dining room from hell?

Downstairs was fine. We had a table with a view over the terrace and landscaped grounds. The interior is a little cave-like during daylight. At night we surmised it would be cosy and atmospheric.

The Sunday lunch menu is a blend of the traditional and modern. Aged aunts and young hipsters alike will find something to satisfy them. While we are neither of those stereotypes (well, Sylvia is an aunt and I’m always willing to sample the latest food fad) we thought it was well thought out.

So Sylvia went down the traditional route with tomato soup and roast lamb.

I chose cod, chickpea and chorizo stew, padron peppers and garlic bread and roast beef. And it was mostly very good.

Darlington and Stockton Times:
Inside would be cosy at night

The soup was well seasoned, thick and creamy and served with plenty of good fresh bread and butter.

My tapas-style cod and chorizo stew could have been served on Barcelona’s La Rambla, packed with fishy, porky, peppery, spicy flavour. The autumn sunshine pouring in through the window suddenly seemed a tad stronger.

The roasts were more of a mixed bag. Sylvia’s lamb was fine – three handsome slices (of leg we thought) with a good stock-based gravy. My beef was tender but strangely almost entirely lacking any discernible flavour.

The vegetables (sweet potato, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, mange tout) were well prepared, cooked and presented. Yorkshire puddings were light and crisp.

The roast potatoes were rather strange. They were piled into the Yorkshire puddings and looked decidedly anaemic. Although not crisp-edged or attractively browned, they tasted very good. Desserts were a morethan- acceptable passion fruit cheesecake with raspberries and coulis for her and a rich and buttery Bakewell tart with slightly sharp raspberry sorbet.

Service was easy-going but efficient. There was no pressure to get a move on and we left our table well after two, so apologies for anyone we kept waiting.

Pricing was fair and refreshingly simple – £4 for starters and desserts, £9.50 for a main. The total, with a glass of prosecco and small glass of house white, came to £44.75.

Ratings:

Food Quality: 8/10

Service: 8/10

Surroundings: 7/10

Value: 7/10