NOW I’d not set foot in The Angel before, despite driving past it on Topcliffe’s main drag many times.

Back in 2005, this column declared it heaven sent, but from the outside at least, the former Cameron’s pub had been looking rather tired of late.

It’s now had some significant investment under new owner West Park Assets, the fast-growing firm founded by local businessman Richard Sykes. West Park bought its first pub, the Moor and Pheasant at nearby Dalton, just a couple of summers ago. It now has eight boozers in the county.

Significantly larger on the inside than external appearances suggest, it also has 15 en suite bedrooms (still undergoing a refit as part of phase two) and a function room.

It has definitely benefited from a facelift and inside the style is all dark wood and leather. It’s smart, but cosy enough to welcome a healthy throng of Friday night drinkers in the bar area.

There’s a chimney needs attention somewhere, mind – it probably wasn’t cold enough to light a fire, which meant there was a strong smell of coal-tinged chimney.

That said, I keep being told I’ve a fussy nose and palate.

An excellent pint of Copper Dragon’s Golden Pippin got the ball rolling nicely at the bar for me (from a choice of four cask ales) while we browsed the menu. This is of the wipe-clean, in-it-forthe- long-term variety, with eight starters, a grill section with four types of steak (£15.95-£25.95), pork loin steak (£12.50), a burger (£9.95), tuna (£13.95) or swordfish (£13.75) steaks or salmon fillet (£11.95).

A separate section of “Angel classics” includes beerbattered haddock, scampi, chicken, leek and tarragon pie or a Caesar salad with char-grilled asparagus (ranging from £9.95 to £11.45). A chalkboard offered a trio of specials.

So it was from the latter that I chose a starter of roasted figs, Parma ham and blue cheese (£6.50). At first slightly alarminglooking – like I’d imagine more rounded Rocky Mountain oysters to look, or giant eyeballs – it was a concept that worked well.

Not the sweetest, plumpest pair of figs (or was that the roasting process?), but nevertheless, it proved a pleasant combination of flavours with a tang from the blue cheese.

Anna’s starter was a salad of home-cured salmon, potato, and beetroot with dill and creme fraiche (£6.95).

The salad was ramekinformed, topped with folds of smoked salmon, all nicely presented on an oblong plate with the increasingly obligatory pea shoots and dribbles of dressing. She enjoyed it. I wondered if it was a bit jumped-up.

My 10oz sirloin (sourced, like all the meat, from R&J in Kirkby Malzeard) was fantastic (£19.50).

Juicy, tasty and cooked just as requested, it came with good chips (although I could have chosen skinny fries or herb-roasted new potatoes) and two huge, gorgeously flavoursome flat mushrooms as part of a “grill garnish” which included tomatoes.

Perfect.

On the other side of the table was brochette (skewer) of marinated lamb, dribbled with a minted yoghurt and caper dressing (£12.95).

She’d had the same options as I when it came to potatoes and it all came with the same little rocket side salad.

It was excellent in the same way, with portions to leave you satisfied without being rammed.

For her pudding, Anna opted for a baked New York cheesecake with strawberry compote (£4.95). Generously sized and well-flavoured, it prompted no complaints.

My plateful of mini-waffles, toffee ice cream with praline and sticky toffee sauce (£4.95) was similarly excellent – particularly the ice cream. I splashed out on a glass of Muscat, which really topped off a great pud.

A glass of Merlot and a fizzy water took the bill to £70.50 (drinks made up almost £20 of this).

The front-of-house staff that night were exclusively very young and very good – our waiter in particular was faultlessly friendly and polite, without the interruptive platitudes I can’t bear.

All in all, it was a very good meal in surroundings I was happy to linger in.

With the perennially popular Crab and Lobster just up the road to compete with, but two thriving private schools close by, there should be rich pickings to help return West Park’s considerable investment.

The halo above the Angel shines deservedly bright.

Long Street, Topcliffe, Thirsk, YO7 3RW
Telephone: 01845-578000
Website: theangelattopcliffe.co.uk
Open for meals: Monday-Thursday, noon-2.30pm, 5-9pm; Friday
and Saturday, noon-2.30pm, 5-9.30pm; Sunday, noon-7pm. Fine for
disabled.