Banking on good times at Devonport

Partly that was because of its highly-advantageous situation in the “One Row” a small village perched on an escarpment formed by the north bank of the River Tees. The Devonport faces due south over North Yorkshire and when the weather is right, the views are stupendous.

It also had a reputation for good food keenly priced and looking after the locals by retaining enough of a pub look so they didn’t feel unwelcome.

Then, somewhat inevitably, it was bought by a pubco and the familiar vicious circle started turning, with tenant after tenant passing through the revolving doors of supreme optimism and bitter disillusionment. Whatever reputation the Devonport had disappeared down the steep bank outside and into the river.

Now there’s another hand on the tiller and there’s a chance that the good times could be back. Anthony Tilbrook, his wife Sara and family have signed a 20- year lease with Enterprise Inns, and since April, some major investment has been made in the decaying fabric of the hotel, both inside and out. It’s by no means finished, but all the public areas have been attended to.

An attractive courtyard has been created at the rear and there are plans for a seating area to be created at the front to take advantage of those aforementioned views.

Come to think of it, it is incredible that no-one, to our knowledge at least, has tried to do this before.

Unfortunately, when we called on the Saturday evening of the recent bank holiday weekend, the weather was atrocious. The rain was pelting down and the Tees was wreathed in mist.

North Yorkshire was nowhere to be seen. Trying out the new courtyard was not an option and neither was the restaurant. A 13th birthday party was in full swing (and it turned out there had been an 18th celebration during the afternoon) so we took a table in the bar.

We were told the bar had been included in the recent refurbishment. Certainly there was swanky deep pile contemporary carpet and the paintwork had been freshened up. But we were a bit disconcerted to find the banquette seating heavily worn, at least in our corner.

Whatever the exact status of the refurbishment, it is still very much the Devonport of old in look and feel.

The evening menu (which we understand will change in a few weeks’ time) is a mix of pub classics and some slightly more adventurous dishes. There’s a passing nod to use of local produce, notably beef from Country Valley at Hurworth, more of which later.

Although we were eating at the bar, table service was provided by a very friendly, helpful maitre d’ – Barry – and later by Mr Tilbrook. It was clear the kitchen was under a bit of pressure with the birthday party in full swing, but we were advised in advance that there might be a slight delay, particular with the main courses.

Sylvia started with a hearty £3.95 bowlful of leek and potato soup (it was that sort of night). It was well-balanced and made from a good base stock. It came with fresh bread and butter.

My queen scallops had been grilled in the shell with lemon, garlic and parsley butter (£7.25). Although not the very freshest scallops I’ve had, they were well cooked and still nicely soft in the middle.

Country Valley provided the beef for both Sylvia’s rib-eye steak and my beefburger.

Country Valley is in such a big way these days that Robin Hirst’s Newbus Grange Farm may not have been the source of the meat, but the rib-eye was nevertheless particularly good.

The courtyard seating area at The Devonport Hotel

One of the best, Sylvia thought, even though it was quite thinly cut.

She had picked garlic butter from the sauce options (the others were peppercorn and creamy stilton – £2.50 extra) and it was served spot-on medium as requested. It was also accompanied by some flat mushrooms, chunky chips, grilled tomato and humungous, crisp beer-battered onion rings.

My burger (£6.95), which I asked for without the cheese and bacon (£1 extra), was sadly slightly over-cooked.

Given the evident leanness of the minced steak, it was made from, it made it a little dry although certainly flavoursome.

It was served in a good quality bap, and came with a side salad and the same chunky chips, billed as “famous”

on the menu. They were good, certainly, but the fame has to be discounted as a touch of hyperbole from an establishment which has only been open under its current management a few months.

We were well sated and skipped desserts, although the toffee and peach meringue (all desserts £4.95) looked tempting.

The bill, with a small and a large pinot grigio and a soft drink, was £42.75. Service was always personable if a little stretched at times.

Ratings:

Food Quality: 7/10

Service: 7/10

Surroundings: 6/10

Value: 8/10