THE Bridge Inn at Whorlton near Barnard Castle has had a somewhat chequered history of late, with the great and the good having had a stab at making the business pay.

The latest to don the mantle in this small village near Barnard Castle are Robbie and Kelly Stewart, who took up the reins last November after the hostelry had been closed for a year due to flooding. Formerly of the Runswick Bay Hotel, Robbie and Kelly were eager to return to the area, as Kelly is originally from Bishop Auckland.

With many village pubs now shut during the day, the couple are keen to prove they can be relied upon to stay open all hours. Doors open at 10am, seven days a week, serving breakfast and lunch, doubling up as a tearoom for afternoon and high teas, then reverting to a restaurant for dinner.

We opted for the dinner option on a Saturday evening.

We’d requested 7.30 but were asked to go along for 7.15, so we arrived on the dot thinking it was going to be very busy, but although trade was steady we were mystified as to why we’d been asked to arrive early when there remained a good few empty tables. This was later explained by front of house Jenna Clarkson, who is keen not to have diners pitch up at exactly the same time so that they can be assured of personal service and not too long a wait for food. Seems a reasonable idea, but as there were quite a few tables free after 8pm we’d have liked to have had that later option, which Jenna readily took on board for future bookings.

As we enjoyed a drink in the bar, while perusing the menu – a refreshing glass of Pinot Grigio blush for me, a pint of well kept Theakston’s for Peter – we admired the tasteful decor, a light and airy look carried through to the dining room.

Jenna remained attentive, advising us when our starters were ready and taking our drinks through on a tray; a thoughtful touch. The dining room is well laid out, with plenty of room between tables and low-key background music allowing normal conversation without being overheard or having to shout. One small irritation was the plastic tablecloth aimed at keeping the underneath white linen one spotless, but irritatingly sticking to my lower arms.

From a menu of nine starters Peter was impressed with his black pudding tower layered with crisply fried bread, a beautifully runny poached egg and bacon curl, drizzled with warm mustard sauce. I tend to avoid mustard as it can be overpowering if too keen, but a sample taste proved delicious. Having asked chef Luke Gilmore what he’d added to give the sauce its piquancy, Jenna returned to inform us that it was simply icing sugar.

I plumped for garlic mushrooms on toasted baguette slices, also a good choice.

The sauce was creamy, and a good consistency, with the bread toasted on one side giving a good mix of crunch and softness.

There was a splendid variety of mains – including fish and every kind of steak – but Peter opted for the duck with potato fritters, broccoli and sticky orange sauce.

Darlington and Stockton Times:

The dish was enjoyable; the duck cooked the other side of pink as requested. However, the sauce was slightly disappointing, being more of a jus than a sticky consistency.

I chose a fillet of beer battered haddock and was very pleased I’d gone for the ‘half’ portion at £7.95 as it was plenty for me. The batter was light and crisp, the chips home made, but the promised mushy peas were for me a letdown as they were in fact crushed garden peas – mushed if you like, but not in the traditional sense.

Having had a combination of fairly rich and filling dishes, we were too full for puddings.

As we couldn’t be tempted by a chocolate brownie with raspberry cream or an ice cream cookie sundae, we retired replete to a thoughtfully placed sofa to enjoy coffee, which came with complimentary shortbread and mints.

The bill, including drinks and coffees came to £45.65.

We didn’t get to meet Robbie and Kelly on the evening we dined, as they are busily involving themselves in the local community and had popped out during a quiet period to support an event on the village green.

The local community, in return, seem delighted that their ‘local’ is open again and are showing their support in return.

Ratings:

Food Quality: 7/10

Service: 8/10

Surroundings: 8/10

Value: 7/10