Bistro keeping things in the family

In Priestgate we have been musing much on this matter following our inclusion of the town in the North Yorkshire edition earlier this year (it used to be, like Great Ayton, in the Cleveland edition). There’s a proportion of townsfolk who believe it is part of Teesside more than it is aligned with North Yorkshire. They are not happy with the new arrangements.

We’re still working on a possible solution but the issue was well to the fore as we made our way there for an early Saturday evening meal. We were heading for Chapters and, of course, we have to point out at this juncture that, just as Stokesley looks in two directions, there are two places called Chapters in Stokesley serving good food.

If you think that’s a bit odd, bizarre even, there’s a common denominator which explains why. Alan Thompson, the journalist turned culinary pioneer created Chapters Restaurant, and then the Hotel. After that came the Deli and Bistro just a few yards across the cobbles before he died of a brain tumour at the age of just 52.

The hotel and restaurant had been sold before he died to Stephen Bell, of Bells Stores (now Sainsbury’s) fame, but the less formal deli remained with the family.

That’s still the case today, albeit it is a different branch of the family. The Richardsons, who own it now, are related to the Thompsons by marriage. It’s all terribly complicated, I know, but Stokesley can be a bit like that.

It must be ten years or more since we were last there.

There have been a few changes, principally the move of the bar from one end to the other and the deli element of the title seems a bit of a misnomer now. It is, in essence, a cafe/bistro open from first thing for breakfast and then all day for drinks, teas, coffees, snacks, lunch and dinner.

One of the benefits of eating early is securing a plum table and ours was certainly that with a view over the High Street where we could see the comings and goings as the shops closed and people began arriving for an evening on the town. And many were heading for the Chapters Deli door.

Like any decent eating establishment in these challenging times, it has a keenly- priced early bird deal or tea time special (£8.95 for two courses, £11.95 for three – available from 4.30- 9.30pm Monday to Wednesday and 4.30-6.30pm Thursday to Saturday) and that was our choice on arrival at 5pm.

From five starter choices, Sylvia choose a particularly creamy and well-seasoned chicken soup which came with an enormous fresh bread roll and butter. My choice was equally substantial – a mozzarella salad featuring five large slices of soso cheese interleaved with slices of sweet beef tomato and dressed with a nicely sharp sauce vierge and three chunks of garlic bread for good measure.

The interior of Chapters Deli Bistro & Wine Bar, Stokesley

Other starters we observed arriving at adjacent tables included a spectacular-looking bacon and black pudding salad crowned with a poached egg and some very garlicky-smelling moules marinere.

There were 11 main course choices which included three pizzas and three pastas, a burger, Swaledale sausages with mash and onion gravy and the Posh Deli Parmesan, the Chapters version of the Teesside Parmo.

Sylvia chose a simply grilled fillet of salmon which was served with a herb butter, on a bed of vegetables (broccoli, green beans, julienne carrots and sautéed new potatoes). She could find no fault with the fish nor the veg.

My penne arrabiata featured a particularly spicy and thick sauce with beautifully sweet cherry tomatoes.

The pasta could have a been a little more al dente perhaps, but overall it was a fine and hearty dish.

To finish, Sylvia had a good strong latte and I the Eaton(sic) Mess with plenty of meringue and blueberries and raspberries as well as strawberries in the softly whipped cream.

Service, of which we had heard some mixed reports, was friendly and pretty good, only tailing off as the place got busier after 6pm.

The bill was very reasonable – £21 for the food and £12 for a glass of Prosecco, a small glass of Pinot Grigio and the coffee.

Ratings:

Food Quality: 8/10

Service: 8/10

Surroundings: 7/10

Value: 9/10