AFEW weeks ago, we thought we had come across the perfect Sunday lunch. Nothing has changed in our assessment of The Horseshoe at West Rounton.

It is just that we’ve experienced another Sunday lunch which may be its equal.

It’s a cliche of course, but comparisons can be odious.

Whereas The Horseshoe was the ultimate in the traditional meat-three-veg- Yorkshire-pudding dinner, the Sunday lunch offering at Yorebridge House in Wensleydale is a completely different thing.

As one might expect from a boutique hotel which markets itself as Britain’s most romantic (voted by the users of a travel website) and boasts room rates of £300+, the Yorebridge House Sunday lunch is not necessarily cheap. Having said that, one could just have the roast beef, Yorkshire pudding and veg, enjoy the sumptuous surroundings of the former national park headquarters in a chocolate-box setting beside the rivers Bain and Ure on the edge of Bainbridge, and walk out the door parting with just £15.50. But that would be a bit of a shame.

For a special occasion, there can be few equals in this part of the world. Yorebridge is exclusive, boutique and modern. Which is more than can be said for our group of four, Howard and Carrol joining us in a trip “up t’dale”.

A highlight for the ladies was the service. I think it is fair to say Sylvia and Carrol would have enjoyed bowls of gruel strained through dirty socks provided they were looked after by restaurant manager Jeremy. To say he oozed Gallic charm is a bit like saying Charles de Gaulle was a bit of a patriot. Every time he asked: “Ees zere any-sing else I can do for yoo?” the pair looked like spaniels waiting for their master to take them for a walk. Sylvia said she wanted to take him home. Howard and I just rolled our eyes and reflected on the injustice of it all. If Jeremy had been drop-dead gorgeous Jessica, would we have got away with such a shamelessly obvious display of lascivious ogling? The real sickener was that he wasn’t just a pretty face with a hefty side order of charm.

He was very good at his job.

The food was damn fine too, considering that Yorebridge is awaiting the arrival of a new head chef and our Sunday lunch was put together by the commis chef.

The style is modern British, with the accent on local provenance – meat from Hammonds in Bainbridge, cheese from Wensleydale and Swaledale, milk and cream from Townsend Farm in Askrigg and so on.

I was alone in having a starter – asparagus with a slow-cooked egg and butter sauce (£8.50). The weeniest, tenderest tips were bathed in the surprisingly light butter sauce and the egg was perched on top. Jeremy patiently explained that slow-cooked meant it was poached at 68.5F for an hour, or 65.8F for an hour and half. I can’t remember which as I wasn’t hanging on his every word as some members of the party were, but I think my mother would have said it was “coddled”.

And very delicate and lovely it was too.

Everyone raved about the main courses. Howard and Carrol had some beautifully moist and porky Old Spot roasted loin, black pudding, cauliflower and truffle (£16.50).

Sylvia was equally enthusiastic about her strip loin of beef, with Yorkshire pudding and vegetables (£15.50). The beef was beautifully pink all the way through the cut and melted in the mouth. The only downside was the gravy jus which had been reduced a tad too far and was just too salty.

Darlington and Stockton Times: the stylish dining room
The stylish dining room

My rump of lamb (£17.50) was new-season excellence served with white asparagus and samphire, a memorable combination of flavours.

Four desserts (all £7.50) continued the theme of subtle flavour and beautiful presentation. Carrol waxed lyrical about her elderflower buttermilk custard with strawberry sorbet. Howard enthused about his sour cherry parfait, cherry sorbet and pistachio. I was impressed with the artistry and the moistness of my lemon cake, curd and poached peach while Sylvia was ecstatic about Jeremy fulfilling her special off-themenu request of strawberries and cream. What came was the glorious concoction of strawberry, quenelles of strawberry and vanilla icecreams and cream.

With coffee and chocolates in the lounge, a £24 bottle of Prosecco and some soft drinks, the bill was £160, which included a 10 per cent service charge which Jeremy offered to remove if I felt so minded. I didn’t.

The ever-obliging Jeremy saw us out of the door and seemed prepared to squeeze into the back seat of the car with Sylvia and Carrol.

But I don’t think the 10 per cent service charge stretched quite that far.

Ratings:

Food Quality: 10/10

Service: 10/10

Surroundings: 10/10

Value: 8/10