Restaurant offers near-perfect round

Twenty minutes later, perspiring heavily, full of apologies, we were charmed and reassured by the smiling staff into a state of relaxation.

The job was finished off by the traditional décor, the beautiful, golf-course scenery and generally unhurried vibe.

This place feels comfortable, slightly old-fashioned. So much so that I was surprised to learn the Wine- Glass Restaurant was in fact refurbished little more than a year ago. Subtly done, it’s smart, certainly worth dressing respectably for, but is un-showy.

Attentive staff are quick to offer service, almost too eager to please, but friendly and approachable. We had that moment when you’re asked if you’re ready to order and, just a sip into your much-desired alcoholic beverage, you realise you haven’t even looked at the menu yet. It was turned into a little joke, no-one minding our tardiness.

We had been offered two menus. One was £20 for three courses, with about five choices each for starters, main and desserts. The other was the usual offer on which three courses would nearly always come to a bit less than the £25 mark.

Simone, half-way through a reviving G&T (£4.60) and admiring the country-view through the open door on this sultry night, went for the £20 option. Her choices suitably summery, she went for a melon-affair for starters, salmon with salad for mains and a strawberry tart to finish.

My choices, chosen over a £3.50 Magners cider with ice, are altogether heavier, more fitting for a Durham winter than a 30 degree day.

Goat cheese bruschettas for starters (£5.50), heroic-sized beefburger on a bagel with real chips for main (£13) and – this chosen after assurances from our friendly waitress, Shirley – a crème brulee, interestingly made with a rhubarb base for pudding (£5.50).

For Simone the melon dish had more-than-usual taste and was nice and light, but it was the salmon, which looked slightly overdone to me, that got full marks, “meaty and tender and the salad juicy”. The strawberry tart had a very large, circular dollop of double-clotted cream in the middle, too much, surely, for most, but was otherwise sweet and heavenly.

My small bruschettas were a little-pizza like but, packed with goats cheese as they were, very enjoyable.

The interior of the Hall Garth Hotel and Golf Club

In truth, spying Simone’s exotic and light salmon and salad, I’d regretted ordering a dish so plain as a beefburger, but I was wrong to be worried. Loaded with bacon, cheese and a delicious creamy sauce, it was very far removed from those little slabs of over-cooked rubber we’ve all eaten and wished we hadn’t. Large, soft and melty, it was a substantial affair.

The rhubarb crème brulee, complete with shortbread, was different to any other crème brulee I’ve ever tasted, A bit custardy, it covered a rhubarb mush which was sweet, not sour. It was a proper pudding, I loved it and recommend it, although someone with a more sophisticated palate than mine may easily be disappointed.

It is not a typical brulee by any means.

This was a good, solid meal, worth the price, well-served by smiling, helpful staff. Ok, it wasn’t Rockcliffe Hall, Michelin-star standard cuisine, but neither was the price.

They push the wine a bit, as befits the restaurant name, and Simone found it in herself to order a large glass of Chardonnay (£8.80) which I’m assured went down well, despite the price.

We strolled around the grounds savouring the late mid-summer sun and decided on a drink in the hotel’s Stables bar Functional and plain, we wouldn’t recommend it in the winter, but this night we could sit outside and enjoy the South Durham countryside, the day’s worries far behind us.

Ratings:

Food Quality: 8/10

Service: 9/10

Surroundings: 9/10

Value: 9/10