WE last ate at the Coore Arms, in Scruton, near Northallerton, about seven years ago. All I can remember was the novelty item among a mountain of vegetables – deep fried mashed potato.

Locals took me to task for belittling this local delicacy and not being terribly keen on the rest of the offering or the surroundings. It was, I think, another example of a village defending a community asset to the last.

We can’t recall who was at the helm then. It may have been the current owners.

The Henderson family were tenants at one point in the past until retirement beckoned for dad Tom and they moved on. But when the freehold came up last year, Tom, his wife Cath, with son Chris and daughter Rachael as part of the team decided to return to the Coore Arms and carry out a comprehensive refurbishment which was completed in time for an Easter reopening.

A nice job they have done, too. It is still recognisably a pub but contemporary decor and furnishings have lifted it to a different level. Both the front bar and the dining room where we ate had a relaxed, informal feel.

When we arrived on a recent Saturday, we were greeted with warm smiles and a thinly-disguised sense of imminent crisis. The bottled gas supply in the kitchen had run out (something to do with a departed chef) and emergency supplies had been sent for.

Thankfully, Braithwaites at Leeming Bar had agreed to open up for them and a replacement bottle was on its way. We know this because they were quite upfront about the problem and gave us regular updates as we looked at the menu. As we ordered, we were assured our choices did not require the use of the gas burners.

The menu matched the surroundings: broadly traditional but with contemporary touches. Starters included soup, chicken liver pate and salmon and prawn parcels along with beef carpaccio with chilli oil, rocket and parmesan. Mains included two steaks (sirloin and fillet) with a choice of sauces, belly pork, grilled chicken on a lemon and thyme risotto and a veggie risotto. Vegetarians were generally well catered for; gluten-free diets were also accommodated.

Our starters were fine.

Sylvia thought her tomato and basil soup (£4.25) well flavoured and seasoned – the fragrant and sweet basil coming through strongly – and she also appreciated the warm bread and plentiful butter. My roasted peach and parma ham salad (£6.50) was made up of excellent constituent parts – particularly the Italian ham – but I couldn’t quite lose the feeling that, even with the rocket, there was something missing.

Sylvia’s main course came from a separate “pub classics” and sandwiches menu.

Her Balti chicken with rice, poppadum and mango chutney (£9.95) was a generous plateful. The curry was not particularly spicy but it contained plenty of tender chicken. The large poppadum was particularly good – crisp and greaseless.

My sea bass with muscles (sic) in a white wine and cream sauce (£12.95) was in place of sea bream which, I was told, the cook “had not liked the look of”. The two fillets were perfectly done, nicely browned but not over cooked. Similarly, the mussels were well done – plump and juicy and not at all rubbery.

The sauce was simple but well seasoned.

The fillets were served atop crushed new potatoes and there was a separate dish of veg – al dente carrots and cauliflower among them, with no hint of sogginess.

Sylvia, as usual, skipped dessert. My fresh cream and fruit trifle (£4.95) was a mistake, but only because I’m a sponge and booze aficionado and this one lacked both. To be fair, the menu description hinted as much so that was entirely my own fault. Anyone who likes their trifle with jelly would have loved it. I might have been happier with the raspberry ripple crème brulee, the jam roly poly, or the STP.

Service, although not lightning fast, was very friendly and efficient given what was going on in the kitchen. Our bill, including £4.20 for a pint of Black Sheep and a couple of soft drinks, was £44 – fair value we thought.

For those of you who may have been concerned about an apparent upheaval in your columnist’s family affairs, last week’s review of In Shanghai in Durham was written by colleague Mark Tallentire. Apologies to Sylvia and Sarah (Mark’s wife)

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 8 Service 7 Surroundings 8 Value 7