A RECENT recent outing took us to West Tanfield, between Masham and Ripon, said by Arthur Mee in his The King’s England series of books (The North Riding of Yorkshire) to have almost everything one could wish for in an English village.

Until the boundary changes of 1974, the River Ure, which flows rapidly past the village, marked the border between the West and North Ridings with a handsome three-arched stone bridge spanning the gap. Today, those boundary changes mean that most of the former North Riding is encompassed within the new county of North Yorkshire, along with a large slice of the former West Riding, including Skipton, Harrogate and Ripon.

When Tanfield’s bridge was first constructed, the fact that its north and south ends were in different counties presented something of a problem, not only with its construction but also with its ongoing maintenance. Although Tanfield’s bridge is listed as an ancient monument, its earlier constructions on this site are not as old as many others in this region.

In early medieval times, bridge building was regarded as an act of worship to God and many were constructed by local Catholic abbeys and cathedrals; they maintained them by installing bridge chapels at the end of some bridges (or indeed in some cases as part of the bridge). The chapel was used for daily mass with special prayers for travellers, and below the chapel was accommodation for the resident priest; some of these chapels became known as “the kirk house”. It was the priest’s duty to collect tolls from people using the bridge and these paid for the maintenance.

In the case of Tanfield’s bridge, I have not found any reference to such a chapel. Indeed, when the famous poet, writer and antiquarian, John Leland (1503-52) passed this way in 1534, he commented upon the lack of a bridge and completed the crossing by ferry.

The first stone bridge was built upon arches around 1720-25 but it was washed away by floods in 1732-33. Its replacement was extremely expensive (c £764) with the authorities of each of the Ridings paying half. Maintenance continued to be shared in this way and the bridge was extended to its present width in 1810-12. It is indeed a handsome piece of work and we enjoyed a good view of its grace and style from the open-air dining area of the Bull Inn on the riverside at the North Riding end.

The Bull itself is of historic interest.

When we learn it was re-built in 1699, we can appreciate just how old it really is. It is believed to have been the home of the ferryman, the cellar being his kitchen. Both this inn, and the Bruce Arms not far away, have mounting blocks outside, reminders of the value of horses in our former transport system. This small area of Tanfield alone gives a splendid indication of its overall ancient history but the view up-river provides more.

Many long distance views of this locality include the famous Marmion Tower which stands a few yards up-river from Tanfield Bridge. Once part of a 14th century manor house, it now stands alone but with the Church of St Nicholas almost opposite and some fascinating old chantry cottages along the river bank.

The distinctive shape of this 14th century tower acts as a guide to this locality, but it seems it was formerly part of a manor house owned by Sir Henry Fitzhugh and his wife, Elizaabeth Marmion. It is now all that survives of the manor and is open to the public free of charge, being maintained by the Department of the Environment. We dutifully climbed its narrow, steep stairs to be rewarded with fine views.

The purpose of the tower seems to have varied according to accounts by modern travel writers. I have seen it described as a tower, a castle, a gateway tower and a gatehouse, but it is worth the climb and narrow staircase to see the river view from the oriel window.

It seems that Tanfield came into the possession of the Marmions around 1215 when Amice married Robert Marmion, the younger half-brother of the 4th Lord Marmion of Tamworth.

It remained in possession of this family for two centuries, but descending via the female line and eventually passing to the Fitzhughs when Elizabeth Marmion married Henry Fitzhugh sometime before 1424.

The impressive Church of St Nicholas stands nearby. Although it has undergone a great deal of modernisation and rebuilding, many of its medieval Catholic features remain. One of them is a curious chamber cut into the north wall of the chancel which seems to have been used as a confessional in its time as a Roman Catholic church – this is said to be unique although some theories suggest it might have been a very small chapel.

A so-called squint, more formerly known as a hagioscope, is built into the north wall of the chancel and overlooks the site of the former high altar. This was to allow dangerously diseased persons to stand outside during the celebration of mass and view the altar and elevation of the host without infecting other members of the congregation.

This old church is packed with history spanning at least seven centuries, and is renowned for its alabaster tomb with an original iron hearse above it. The arms of the St Quentin family on the lady occupant’s mantle suggest this is the tomb of either John Marmion or his brother, Robert, each of whom married a member of the St Quentin family.

Like many former Catholic churches, this one suffered the ravages of the Edwardine Visitations. Edward VI, son of Henry VIII and aged nine when he ascended the throne, passed the Act of Uniformity in 1549, banning statues of saints and ordering wall paintings to be covered.

Many, like St Nicholas at West Tanfield, were rendered almost unusable and dangerous to the extent find. What do you mean you don’t have starting blocks?

I was happy with my second place. The winner had clearly been in training and I’m sure I saw running spikes fitted on to his brown brogues.

that in the 19th century many were subjected to either demolition or major repairs. The church at Tanfield was extensively “restored” in 1860.

Just along the lane outside are the remarkable “Chantries” dating from c 1281-1363, these being the home of four priests who served the Marmions.

In all, West Tanfield is a remarkable and atmospheric place.

Cuckoo call

A note from a West Witton reader reports hearing the cuckoo near the aptly named Chantry Caravan Park during June and again at Downholme near Richmond.

It was more than four years ago when he last heard the cuckoo in Wensleydale. By chance, my wife and I visited the Scaling Dam nature reserve between Whitby and Guisborough in the final week of June. Although we did not hear the cuckoo there, notes in the reserve’s diary recorded that the cuckoo had been both seen and heard there during the early weeks of June.

So these birds are still around but any lingerers will shortly be bidding us farewell for another year.