By Jenny Needham

A LARGE proportion of tourists to Ibiza probably don’t get to see how pretty this Mediterranean island really is. They are there for the “beat”, not the beach; for the club scene, not the culture or cuisine.

The centre of the world’s clubbing scene for half the year, Ibiza is where hits are born and DJs’ careers are made. During the summer, the top producers and DJs in dance come to the island and play at world renowned clubs such as Privilege, Amnesia and Pacha. The season traditionally begins at the end of May and finishes on the first weekend of October with the closing parties.

We were staying in the island’s party capital, San Antonio, during the first week of October and the town was plastered with posters advertising closing parties. But while a typical schedule for clubbers going to Ibiza includes waking at noon, early evening naps, late night clubbing, and “disco sunrises”, we were safely tucked up in bed before midnight, ready for an early start each day.

We soon fell into a routine: consult the map, choose a stretch of coastline, and drive off to explore the many pretty bays and coves. The clubbers might have their version of “chilling out”, but this was ours. To truly get away from it all, you should explore the untouched bays and tranquil forests of the island’s coast.

To the North, Cala d’Albarca, Cala Xarraca, Cala Xucia – the track down to which almost did for our hire car – Cala d’En Serra and the small resort of Portinax with its excellent beach cocktail bar. To the East, Cala de Boix, Cala Llenya, Cala Nova and Platja D’Es Canar, where the vast Hippy Market is held each Wednesday in season.

Here you can pick up a wide selection of hand-made goods and crafts from all over the world. It’s a patchouli paradise, with acres of stalls, occasional entertainers and a healthy dose of the unconventionality on which the island seems to thrive. A similar market, Las Dalias, is held on Saturdays at Sant Carles de Peralta, also in the North-East.

Another treat to consider in this part of the island is an authentic fishy feast at El Bigotes at Cala Mastella. We found it purely by accident and realised instantly it was a gem. Shack-like, a big stove was burning and the catch of the day was being pan-fried on top. They serve this up at midday and then at 2pm, it’s bullit de peix y arroz (fish stew with rice), a Catalan speciality. Sadly, too many others had already discovered El Bigotes and all the tables were reserved. Next time…

Finally, we drove West of San Antonio, where we hit upon our favourite beaches of the holiday, Cala Codolar, Platges de Comte and the stunning Cala d’Hort, with its views across to the mystical towering rock of Es Vedra. Strange sightings and happenings have been noted here for years. Legend says it is the third most magnetic point on the planet; locals claim that homing pigeons often lose their sense of direction when they fly over the rock. According to myth, the limestone formations are inhabited by sea nymphs, giants and even aliens, but the only proven inhabitants on the protected nature reserve are in fact wild goats, lizards and falcons.

For a change from beach life, visit Ibiza Town, and the Old Quarter, which has World Heritage Site status. We walked the ancient streets of the acropolis, visited its castle and cathedral. The island has been a crossroads for different cultures for hundreds of years – visited by Ancient Greeks and invaded by the Vandals, Byzantines, Moors and Catalans – and Eivissa Castle in Dalt Vila (literally “high town”) has been at the centre of all the activity. Now it’s a shaded and peaceful retreat, a contrast from the busy streets below with their laid-back bars, charming restaurants and great shopping.

This melting pot of cultures and lifestyles is the perfect place to plant yourself for a few hours and watch the world go by. Down at the harbourside, the number of luxury yachts bear testament to the money that’s coming into the island, and a new mooring is being developed to attract larger cruise ships.

So while there’s no doubt Ibiza has earned itself a reputation as a party island, there’s much more to it than that. The island’s government is trying to encourage a more cultured and quieter tourism scene, passing rules including the closing of all nightclubs by 6am – yes, 6am – and requiring all new hotels to be 5-star – but go off season, hire a car and it’s easy to spend a wonderful week there without once waving a glow stick or dancing until dawn.

The winter season is when Ibiza really blossoms. There’s less traffic on the roads (you can cross the island in less than an hour), prices are much lower and yet the sun still shines, with temperatures hovering at 21 degrees in October and only the odd spot of rain.

As we discovered, when the volume is turned down, it’s possible to see Ibiza for what it really is.

Travel facts

We stayed at the three-star plus Aparthotel Nereida, which was an excellent base for day trips around the island, with car hire at the end of the road and parking directly outside. The Nereida enjoys a seafront location and the rooms are spotless, with basic cooking facilities if you want to self-cater or make a cuppa. Seven nights all-inclusive with Jet2holidays departing from Newcastle in May next year cost £449 per person based on two sharing, including a 22kg baggage allowance and return transfers.

W: jet2.com; Jet2holidays.com