ITALIAN restaurants are ten-a-penny in Darlington. Not a month goes by it seems without another establishment opening serving spaghetti carbonara, margarita pizzas and tiramisu.

There is, however, the Daddy of Darlo’s Italians and that’s Sardis. It opened 27 years ago and nearly all of that time has been the go-to place for simple yet also sophisticated dining in a town not overly blessed with fine restaurants.

It has managed this despite being located in entirely the wrong part of town. Northgate/High Northgate is one of Darlington’s most fetid arteries, fatally severed from the town centre by the 1960s ring road and roundabout which cut it off from the rest of Northgate and condemned it to permanent twilight status – a depressing mix of takeaways, tyre and hire depots and empty premises.

The council has made half-hearted attempts to revive it, to bring back the glory days hinted at by the handsome Georgian frontages now mostly hidden by the plastic fascias of Best Kebab 1 etc but it’s pretty much a lost cause. The focus of Darlington town centre has shifted south – permanently.

But Sardis’ success has been founded on sound principles – cooking based on classic Italian techniques and friendly professional service provided by Sardinian brothers Salvatore and Francesco Obinu.

Two years ago, wanting to retire, they put the restaurant up for sale and all this time on they are still there. Apparently, it is not on the market now but if someone made them the right offer...

It’s hardly surprising really because Sardis is the Obinu brothers. Without them the business has hardly any value. Who wants to buy a place on the wrong side of the tracks when the major reason why anybody would want to dine there has left?

This unfortunate situation is a bonus for the rest of us, because we can still go to eat there and the service and the food is a good as ever, even if the brothers have one, longing, eye on putting their feet up.

One aspect of Sardis that is not wearing well is the interior decor. For many longstanding customers it must like an old pair of favourite shoes – comfortable, well worn-in but not exactly cutting edge style. The three split-level dining areas haven’t had much done to them for years. It is spotlessly clean but it feels very dated.

Some things, of course, are timeless like the Obinu welcome and their staff who are well drilled and highly personable. And before you think we must be known to them we’re not. It is eight years or more since we last visited.

So, the service was excellent but the decor past its best. What about the food?

I started with suppli – three golf-ball sized bundles of rice filled with ham and Mozzarella cheese, breadcrumbed and deep fried, served with a spicy tomato sauce (£5.80). This was a pretty heavyweight dish – two of the balls would have been more than enough.

Sylvia’s love of prawns has been well documented here over the years. In truth, she has them too often to accompany a reviewer but then it could said that the careful preparation and cooking of something so easily spoilt is a good test of a kitchen. On this occasion they came off the shell, in a brandy, garlic, tomato puree and cream sauce (£6.20). And very good they were too, she said.

They were so good she had some more with her simply grilled Dover sole, a firm fleshed fillet topped with some very garlicky examples bathed in a beurre blanc-type sauce (£19).

My main of escalopes of veal served with a tarragon, cream, brandy and garlic butter sauce (£16.80) was a classic Italian flavour combination, the tarragon herbiness well to the fore, the veal beautifully thin and tender.

Vegetables included soft nicely crunchy courgettes, carrots, cubed swede (or turnip, depending of course on what part of the country you hail from), new potatoes and chunky twice-fried chips.

My dessert should have been accompanied by a Government health warning. Seadas – Sardinian pastry fritters filled with lemon flavoured sweet ricotta and drizzled with honey (£4.70)were a super rich, super filling belly busting end to a meal.

Sylvia had settled for a coffee (strong, hot £2.50) and along with a £20 bottle of Prosecco fizz, the bill came to a reasonable £75.

Who knows how long the brothers will keep the restaurant open and whether someone will purchase and endeavour to maintain an enviable reputation. It wouldn't be a easy task.

In the meantime, we can enjoy the experience – while it lasts.

Sardis, 196 Northgate, Darlington DL1 1QU

Tel: 01325 461222 Web: sardis-darlington.co.uk

Open: Tues-Fri noon-2pm and 7-10pm, Sat lunchtime noon-1.30. Closed Sun and Mon

Extensive vegetarian menu. Disabled access: could be tricky owing to the split dining areas

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 9 Service 8 Surroundings 6 Value 8