WE’RE well-versed in the noble art of finding our way to a cheap-(ish) family meal out in smart-(ish) surroundings and The Purple Pig seemed a perfect place.

It certainly looks the part with its hip name, funky decor complete with ‘distressed’ benches, exposed brick on the walls, wooden spoon table markers in jars of sweeties and young, trendy staff. And it is family-friendly joint with a nice atmosphere.

But it is, at bottom, a burger bar but with pretensions and booze.

It has all the classic signs of an identikit chain restaurant and, in fact, a second one has already opened in Middlesbrough, even though the original only opened in April. There are plans for more in Darlington and Northallerton. That’s fine, of course: a cheapish, familyfriendly burger joint when mum and dad, granddad and grandma can actually have a drink and everyone enjoy a meal in a relaxed atmosphere was, surely, needed on Yarm’s High Street and it was easy to understand why it was twothirds full on a Wednesday night.

There was a family with a baby behind us laughing their way through their food and, as the father of a little girl with her birthday coming up, I noted the £4 Oreo, Snickers and pistachio milkshakes and the fact that the Purple Pig is open at lunchtimes selling children’s portions – the ‘piglet menu,’ at a reasonable £3.50.

But this place, for all its burgers and shakes, isn’t all about families but a drinking establishment. We spotted two 30-somethings enjoying cocktails (£6.50 each) from the large selection in the warm, wooden-y surroundings.

Altogether, it has something of a modern, country pub atmosphere: both familyfriendly and drinking establishment at the same time.

The burgers, billed as “gourmet”, were really not much better than you’d get in Burger King. I paid £8 for a Purple Pig burger – a beef burger with three small sausages wrapped in bacon on top, and £2 for fries on the side.

The burger itself was a bit dry but it was, I suppose, worth the extra few quid to eat in far nicer surroundings than a real burger joint. My partner, Simone, went for a classic double cheeseburger at £6. Her verdict: “it was like you buy in a supermarket.” Ho-hum. At £6 it’s hard to complain, although the thought did occur that it is possible to buy a main meal (admittedly without rice or nan) at the award-winning Raj Bari curry house at the other end of Yarm High Street for under £7. Still, I was hungry and devoured my burger all too quickly. I found myself wishing I had gone for the £12 Notorious Pig triple burger with pulled pork, served with “shrooms and no green stuff.” There’s a fairly DARLINGTON & STOCKTON TIMES WEEKEND dst.co.uk FRIDAY, JULY 18, 2014 55 standard, fairly cheap dessert menu of chocolate brownie, cheesecake, sundae and a good, old banana split.

While slightly disappointed with the food there was, happily, still good news: this is a burger joint that sells alcohol. We restricted ourselves to a glass of pinot grigio (£5 a glass) and I also asked for a glass of tap water which came in a jam jar which is, apparently, trendy. Beers, like Budvar, Leffe and Amigo at £3.90 each were on offer which fit perfectly with the cool vibe. The aforementioned cocktails had smile-inducing, voguish names like Amy Swine-house and Self Yarm.

The service was also good once you got to the restaurant (it was impossible to find a telephone number online to actually book a table). We were welcomed into the Grade II-listed building with smiles by friendly staff dressed in a sort-of casual uniform of checked shirts and jeans. We were asked no fewer than three times if we wanted more to drink, which was very slightly irritating, but it was good to get a warm and attentive service.

Afterwards we took a stroll along Yarm’s attractive, 18th Century High Street. It was much quieter than the notoriously packed Friday and Saturday night drinking scene associated with the town, but there was still much more life than most small town centres at 9pm with dozens of pubs, curry houses and Italians open, together with some higher end restaurants. The thought struck that the Purple Pig is something a bit different: the idea of a sharpthinking restaurateur who has spotted a gap in the market.

For us, we felt happier on the other side of the Tees, sitting outside on the green bank near the Blue Bell overlooking the Tees with cold drinks on this warm evening. It somehow felt more authentic experience on an English summer’s night than the American-influenced Purple Pig.

I had been hoping for a gourmet experience but got an everyday burger (admittedly with sausages on it) but looking at the reasonable price (£26 for two alcoholic drinks and two meals) it was hard to complain. It was... fine. But a good pub selling decent, homely food or a familyfriendly Italian restaurant would be the better bet.

The Purple Pig

137 High Street, Yarm, TS15 9AY
Email: yarm@purplepiggroup.co.uk
Web: purplepiggroup.co.uk
Open: 12pm to midnight daily
Disabled access
Vegetarian option (limited to one burger)

Ratings (out of ten):

Food quality: 5
Service: 8
Surroundings: 8
Value: 6