Proper poppadomsin future, please

Such are the comings and goings of this particular ethnic cuisine, a new opening hardly counts for anything these days. So what if yet another Bangladeshi curry house is making a pitch for the five-pints-of-Cobra-and-avindaloo market?

Amritsar’s arrival, however, offered the prospect of something that might be worth serious consideration.

Certainly, the Mayor of Darlington felt it sufficiently significant to agree to carry out the opening honours and one M Amos of that Other Darlington Paper was among the guests at the first night. Your reviewer’s invitation clearly got lost in the post.

Amritsar’s owners, it turns out, have history in that they also own the Garden of India in the town’s Bondgate.

When that opened more than 30 years ago, it was the first Indian establishment that had moved beyond the flock wallpaper era. With its ornate decoration and fountain, it really did break the mould.

Their new establishment has opened in Houndgate in what used to be the Golden Brown coffee/shop bistro.

We reviewed it a few years ago in the company of a prominent Darlington businessman who, somewhat bizarrely, decided to have a fish-finger sandwich, which I duly reported on. He thought it very nice but found it hard to deal with the ridicule that came his way for his somewhat left-field choice.

The premises’ transformation into a contemporary Indian restaurant has preserved the layout over two floors and the look is quite smart and classy in the way of most Indian establishments these days.

We turned up early doors on a Saturday evening and although the place was empty, they had plenty of bookings and requested we vacate our table by 8pm, which we were happy to do.

Soft drinks and beers were swiftly brought to our table and we eschewed starters for poppadoms and the pickle tray.

Now one would have thought there was not much to producing a few crisp poppadoms. These were by no means properly cooked.

The middle portion of a number of them had the texture of thin shoe leather.

The pickle tray was bland in the extreme – mango chutney and two raitas.

But if chef can’t prepare poppadoms, he can do the other stuff to a high standard.

In fact, I’m sure he, or someone, can prepare poppadoms – it was surely just an oversight, or they were just keen to get us eating so we would vacate the table on time.

We selected our main course choices from a menu which featured most Indian standard dishes plus a good selection of seafood plus the “chef’s signature dishes”, one of which, Mangoki Barsath (chicken tikka cooked in a butter sauce with mangoes and nuts £8.25) tempted son Calum.

Sylvia opted for her favourite chicken balti (£7.95) and I went for another old classic – chicken jalfrezi (£7.95).

Calum quickly realised he had made a mistake. His chicken was fine but the sauce was very mild and very sweet – almost to the point of sickliness.

I told him there was a clue in the menu description (mangoes), which he accepted. But nevertheless he devoured it and the pillau rice as only a 21-yearold student can.

Sylvia thought her balti up there with the very best.

There was lots of tender chicken and the sauce had a smoky depth of flavour she hadn’t come across before.

My jalfrezi was a proper jalfrezi.

So many times I have chosen this dish only to be presented with a luridly coloured bowl of slop completely lacking in spice or heat. This one, while also being rather colourful, definitely stiffened the backbone with a decent amount of tongue-tingling chilli, peppers and onion. It was topped with a whole green chilli. I took a few tentative nibbles from the end but decided not to risk the seeded part.

The garlic nan (£3.25) which I chose to accompany it was light and fluffy and soaked up the sauce nicely.

We also had a side dish of sag aloo (spinach and potato – £3.90) which could have been a wee bit hotter.

As we finished our main course, we suddenly realised the restaurant was full and the clock was moving round to eight o’clock.

Anxious waiters’ eyes were checking our progress so we asked for the bill (£46.55 which included an £8.45 bar bill), paid and left.

We knew the deal when we sat down so couldn’t complain.

Inevitably, under the circumstances, service was brisk and efficient but by no means lacking in charm.

We thought Amritsar a worthy addition to the ranks of Darlington’s Indian restaurants, provided they can sort out those poppadoms. Its popularity suggests booking is a necessity at weekend.

Fact file

1 Houndgate, Darlington DL1 5RL
Tel: 01325 480681. No website yet.
Open: 11am-4pm; 5pm to midnight, seven days
Disabled access. Vegetarian options somewhat limited

Ratings (out of ten): Food quality 8 Service 7 Surroundings 8 Value 7