Trek through area's wonders

THE Teesdale Way measures 100 miles, but there's a metaphorical million between the start and finish. From wild moorland to industrial dereliction on a grand scale, it's a fascinating trek with a succession of superb bridges from the Wynch at Low Force to the Transporter at Middlesbrough adding to the variety.

The final leg took us past the entrance to the Redcar steelworks with its sign poignantly declaring that the North-East is “Forever Passionate About Steel.” While reminders of the devastation left behind by SSI's closure of the works were all too obvious, so were reasons for designating parts of Teesmouth as SSSIs (sites of special scientific interest).

Upper Teesdale is one big SSSI for its outstanding natural beauty and rare plants such as blue gentian, while the river mouth's salt marshes and mudflats are protected as sanctuaries for a host of migratory birds. The excellent Cicerone Guide to the walk also notes along the final leg: “Naturalists are constantly amazed by the discovery of some rare plant or endangered insect found thriving in the most unlikely locations.”

We were walking too late in the year to appreciate wild flowers, settling instead for trees at their autumnal best, notably on the glorious riverbank stretches below Egglestone Abbey bridge and through Dinsdale Wood.

These were the highlights, alongside obvious landmarks such as High Force and Yarm's viaduct. But the finish at South Gare was memorable as much for its “other worldliness” as for the elation of reaching journey's end.

Day one: 14 miles from Dufton to Langdon Beck. Much apprehension as 13 travelled by mini bus in pouring rain for the 10am start, noting thick cloud over the moors. Robert Bacon, a 68-year-old retired chemical engineer, added to the worries as he struggled up the 1,400 feet of ascent at the start. Remarkably, he performed like a spring chicken for the rest of the 100 miles. The rain eased, but it had been heavy all night and Maize Beck was in spate, so we were very grateful for the new footbridge, which spared us a detour. Because of cloud we saw nothing of what is supposed to be the scenic highlight, High Cup Nick, but we were in the clear once we dropped down towards Cauldron Snout, just below where the Tees tumbles out of Cow Green Reservoir.

Everyone opted to negotiate the slippery descent on wet rocks beside the Snout rather than proceed by road. Then there was a tricky half mile of picking our way over riverside rocks before the last few miles of gentle rambling were completed in late afternoon stillness. The light was fading as we arrived at Langdon Beck Hotel to be welcomed by landlady Sue, log fires and real ale. A deep bowl of warming soup and black pudding with breakfast heightened happy memories of our only overnight stop.

Day two: 16 miles to Romaldkirk. Reinforcements arrived bearing copious amounts of flapjack to help maintain energy levels. Upper Teesdale was an absolute picture on a balmy autumn morning and High Force was at its terrifying best. A short detour at Low Force took in the charming Bowlees Visitor Centre before continuing the delightful riverside ramble for a flapjack stop at Middleton. After a caravan site there were several abrupt drops over tributary becks, which made for interesting walking, even if one muddy stretch was a little too narrow for comfort, directly above the still-raging Tees. There is no riverside path for the last two miles to Romaldkirk, but a detour via the woods around Eggleston Burn and the village itself maintained interest. Again we arrived at the Rose and Crown just as the light was fading. Rarely can a bar have seemed so relaxing.

Day three: 17 miles to Gainford. More walkers, plus two dogs, joined us on a sunny Sunday, perfect for T-shirt strolling until we hit fog on the final mile at sunset. A brief stop at Barnard Castle saw the last of the flapjack consumed, then we pressed on for a 2pm lunch stop at the Whorlton pub, now the Fernaville's Rest. November 1 and it was warm enough for most to sit outside, although not those of us who tucked into the excellent £7.50 carvery. Robert and his sprightly 73-year-old pal, Russ Henry, had gone ahead, but we rejoined them at Winston bridge. There was a lovely mile of wooded riverside in the last of the sunshine before joining an old railway line, which took us to the A167 prior to a fog-shrouded stroll into Gainford.

Day four: 15 miles to Hurworth. Down to the hard core of eight on a murky day. We took in the Roman remains at Piercebridge then noted the reinforced embankment where the road had been closed for so long before High Coniscliffe. What might have been a 45-minute stroll along the road from there to our lunch stop at the Baydale Beck pub took twice as long round the loop in the river, passing beneath the A1 just before Low Coniscliffe. From the far end of the village the path passes through a field to emerge directly opposite the pub. We were joined there by 83-year-old Jen Klement, who had walked from her Mowden home and kept us entertained along the river to Blackwell. There is no riverside path from there to Hurworth, the route passing through Blackwell (formerly Stressholme) golf course to Croft then between the hotel and cricket ground at Rockciffe. We finished outside the Michelin-starred Bay Horse, where Russ was shocked by the price of a pint compared with his usual watering hole at Billingham Cons.

Day five: 15 miles to Yarm. The executive belt, with swans floating serenely on the now tranquil Tees. The water takes two days to get from Cow Green to the sea, slowing all the way after a sprint start. After walking on the flood embankment at Neesham, we took in part of the Sockburn loop, but there's no riverside path until the delightful Dinsdale Wood. The Devonport at Middleton-one-Row, which includes a coffee shop, was our relaxing lunch stop. Another loop round the edge of arable fields preceded a stretch where the dreaded giant hogweed had evidently run rampant. We emerged below Aislaby, which is said, like Yarm, to be favoured by footballers. Premiership wages would be needed for some of the houses on the far bank approaching Yarm. A train rumbled over the hugely impressive viaduct just before we alighted at the Blue Bell.

Day six: 13 miles to the Transporter Bridge. Steps leading down almost from the Blue Bell's door precede a pleasant stretch where one can imagine oneself at Henley-on-Thames, complete with swans and private jetties. Then it's another loop around arable fields before leaving the river to skirt Eaglescliffe Golf Club, necessitating a slog along the A135. The feelgood factor is swiftly restored on the return to the river via woodland on the edge of Preston Park and maintained through wetlands replete with birdlife. After passing beneath the A66 the first signs of industrial decay surround a bus depot protected by a lethal-looking spiked fence, before emerging opposite a Burger King close to the attractive Victoria Bridge. This is a far cry from Upper Teesdale, but just ahead was something to savour, the tearoom inside the replica of Captain Cook's Endeavour. Asked if he wanted salad with his sandwich, Dave Kilvert replied: “Yes please, let's push the boat out.” The carrot cake is highly recommended. A mile further on we lingered to admire the Barrage, although the white water course was sadly stilled. Then on past Portrack Marshes, under the A19 and up the steps to cross Newport Bridge. The path hugs the south bank until it swings away past the neglected metal dinosaurs in Teesaurus Park prior to the final trudge along Vulcan Street.

Day seven: 11 miles to South Gare breakwater. We posed for pictures alongside the statues of George Hardwick and Wilf Mannion outside Middlesbrough FC before heading towards Wilf's South Bank birthplace along the Black Path. This is an old sailors' trod, fenced in on both sides, enforcing single file walking past scrapyards and waste recycling plants. With the Dorman Long tower looming ahead, the path was closed for safety reasons at South Bank station, forcing us on a five-mile trudge along the road towards Redcar. We finally escaped via Coatham Marshes, cresting a rise with panoramic views before dropping down the other side to emerge opposite a cafe in a small cabin next to scrapyards at Warrenby. Only the proprietor was in, but such enterprise deserves support and his good-value bacon butties were much appreciated ahead of the final three miles along the road to South Gare. On one side lay the silent gloom of the steelworks, on the other the light and open spaces of the golf links. Heading out on to the promontory the links give way to wild duneland on the seaward side, while the estuary offers fine views back up the Tees and across to Seaton Carew. South Gare really is another world, with its cosy harbour and cluster of fishermen's huts. It was worth the trek to experience it, even with our first rain since the opening day starting to fall. The wind at our backs wasn't quite strong enough to deter us from completing the journey by heading out to the end of the breakwater. Fishermen have perished here and some might have said we were foolish. But they probably thought we were crazy to start a 100-mile walk in pouring rain. On reflection, it was all part of a richly-rewarding ramble in convivial company.

Tim Wellock and his colleagues raised more than £4,000 by walking the Teesdale Way. Charities to benefit were the Great North Air Ambulance, MacMillan Nurses, Cancer Research, Durham County Carers and Darlington's Talking Newspaper. Former Barnard Castle hairdresser Brian Smith also used the walk to help his family's efforts to raise more than £3,000 for a special tandem for Mr Smith's disabled grandson.